66 CultureShock! Bolivia
villages beyond. Taller folk may have trouble fi nding a place
for their knees, but at that price, you’re not going to get
reclining seats.
Like plumbers and electricians, drivers are addressed as
maestro. Recalling my days in Mexico, I expected that I’d
need to board the micro with a running jump, or vault off
the moving bus at a precise angle defi ned by the laws of
physics for a safe landing. But in Bolivia, most micro drivers
are franchised or own their own bus, and therefore are
paid according to the number of customers. The customer
comes fi rst, even if it means stopping for a pick-up in the
middle of an intersection. If you are driving behind a micro,
be prepared!
City planners designate bus stops, to no avail. The phrase
to use if you want to get off is ‘bajo aquí por favor’ (baho
akee—I’m getting off here) or ‘esquina por favor’ (eskeena—
corner). Drivers will give change, but it is best to carry coins
rather than larger notes. During rush hours, some micros
are so crowded that people ride hanging out the door, which
usually remains open during the trip.
Micro rides are accompanied by radio music of the driver’s
preference. The serenade is better than lift music but don’t
expect progressive jazz or Beethoven. If you ride the micro
enough, you will have memorised the same Number One
pop song. And whether you like that song or not, when you
arrive home at night, the melody is going to haunt you and
taunt you as you attempt to sleep. You may even fi nd yourself
unconsciously singing it in the shower next morning. It is no
use trying to escape the torturous song by taking a collective
taxi for a little more than twice the cost of the micro, for the
taxi driver happens to like the exact same song.
There is an overabundance of professionals in Bolivian
cities. Too many doctors, too many lawyers and too many
sociologists. Traditionally, it was degrading for a person with
a professional degree to take a lesser job. But these prejudices
are becoming ancient history, and some independent
labourers may be computer technicians in disguise.
The pay for certain professions is alarmingly low. If one
were to include the room and board of a typical house maid