Sunset Test Kitchen tip:
Leftover ginger, simmered with
water, makes an energizing
hot drink you can sip like tea;
add honey and lime if you
prefer.
Learn
SEASONING
SKILLS
GRINDING breaks down the
structure of a spice and releases
the flavor. I use a sturdy mortar
and pestle to grind most dry and
wet ingredients. To get a fine
powder, add a small quantity of
an abrasive, such as salt or
sugar.
BRUISING AND CHOPPING
herbs and spices before using
helps release their flavor. For
garlic or cardamom pods, I rub
the outside with the flat of a knife,
just enough to open them up.
TOASTING reduces the bitter-
ness or magnifies the flavor of a
whole spice like cumin seed (it’s
a good way to revive dried spices
that have been sitting in your pan-
try for a while). Heat a dry skillet
over medium-high heat, add the
spice, and toast, swirling. Be
vigilant: The darker the spice, the
faster it absorbs heat, which is
why black peppercorns burn fast-
er than coriander seeds. As soon
as you start to smell the spice,
transfer it to a plate to cool. You
can then grind it or use it whole.
TEMPERING (tadka in Hindi) is
another form of toasting in which
a spice or other seasoning is
crisped in hot fat, such as coconut
oil. The flavored oil and seasoning
are then drizzled over the dish.
GINGER and TAMARIND
REFRESHER
MAKES 5 DRINKS / ABOUT 30 MINUTES, PLUS TIME TO STEEP AND COOL
While it is not uncommon in India to find fresh ginger blended
into limeades, lemonades, and fresh sugarcane juice, it also pairs
nicely with tamarind.
21 ⁄ 2 oz. sour tamarind pulp
with seeds
8 oz. fresh ginger, preferably
young and thin-skinned
1 cup sugar
Chilled club soda, seltzer, or
water
- Bring 1^1 ⁄ 2 cups water to a
boil. Put tamarind pulp in a
small heatproof bowl and
cover with the boiling water.
Let sit until pulp is soft and
mushy, 1 to 3 hours. Using a
small potato masher or clean
hands, massage and squeeze
pulp to break it up. Strain
through a fine-mesh strainer
set over a medium bowl,
pressing with a spoon to ex-
tract as much pulp as possi-
ble. Chill extract (discard
seeds and fibers). - While tamarind is softening,
rinse ginger. If it’s young,
leave skin on and gently
scrub; otherwise, peel. Cut
into thin slices, then combine
with sugar and 1 cup water in
a small saucepan. Bring to a
boil over medium-high heat,
then immediately remove
from burner. Cover and steep
10 minutes. Strain through
a fine-mesh strainer and dis-
card ginger (see tip, below).
Let cool.
- In a small pitcher, mix tama-
rind extract and ginger sim-
ple syrup. Fill 5 tall glasses
with ice. Pour about^1 ⁄ 2 cup
tamarind-ginger syrup into
each glass, top with equal
amount (or more) of club
soda, and stir.
MAKE AHEAD Tamarind
extract, up to 4 days, chilled.
Tamarind-ginger syrup, up
to 1 week, chilled.
PER DRINK 180 Cal., 0% from fat; 0.3 g
protein; 0.1 g fat (0 g sat.); 47 g carbo
(0.5 g fiber); 8.2 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.
LS/VG
SUNSET ❖ OCTOBER 2018 49