2020-05-01_Lonely_Planet_Traveller

CUT

THIS

OUT

AND

TAKE

IT

WITH

YOU

FAIRWEATHER

TEAR OUT GUIDE

WITH

CONTRIBUTIONS

FROM

CATHERINE

LE

NEVEZ, CHRISTOPHER

PITTS

AND

NICOLA

WILLIAMS.

PHOTOGRAPH:

JULIEN

BESSIERES

PHOTOGRAPHIE

PARIS IN NUMBERS

DATEOFBIRTH

52 BC

whenJuliusCaesar

establishedLutetiaby the

Seine

SIZE

40

sq miles(city)

6,600

sq miles(metroarea)

POPULATION

2.2million

(city)

12 .5 million

(metroarea)

NUMBEROF

ARRONDISSEMENTS

(DISTRICTS)

20

HEIGHTOF

MONTMARTREHILL

130m

Outdoors in

Paris

ESSENTIALS... Late spring/early summer public holidays are 1 and 8 May, plus the moveable Ascension Thursday and Pentecost Monday

Datingbackovera

millennium,from 957

CE,theFoireduTrône

is a hugefunfairheld

onthePelousede

Reuillyof theBoisde

Vincennesfrom

aroundEasterto late

Mayor earlyJune

(foiredutrone.com).

CIMETIÈREDUPÈRE

LACHAISE

pere-lachaise.com

Openedin 1804,PèreLachaise

is a 44-hectaresculpturegarden

that’shometo 70,000ornate

tombsof therichandfamous.

Highlightsincludethoseof rock

starJimMorrisonandwriter

OscarWilde.Mapscanbe

pickedupat theoce nearthe

bddeMénilmontantand rue du

Reposentrances.

MUSÉERODIN

musee-rodin.fr

Sculptor,painter,sketcherand

collectorAugusteRodindonated

hisoeuvreto thestatein 1908on

theprovisothatit dedicatehis

formerworkshopandshowroom,

the18th-centuryHôtelBiron,

to displayinghisworks.Theyare

alsodottedthroughouttherose

gardenhere– anamazingly

peacefulplaceanda wonderful

spotto contemplatehismost

famous work,The Thinker.

PETITECEINTUREDU12E

21 RueRottembourg,12e

A one-milesectionof thenow-

abandonedPetiteCeinture

railwayline,whichencircled

centralParisfromthelate19th

centuryuntilthelineclosedin

theearly1990s,openedin 2019.

It’sa lovelygreenparkwith

a naturetrail.It intersectsthe

PromenadePlantée200mnorth

of squareCharlesPéguy,where

there’sa communitygarden.

PARISÀ VÉLO,C’ESTSYMPA!

parisvelosympa.fr

Runsthreeguidedbiketours:

a Heartof Paristour,Unusual

Paris(takingin artiststudiosand

mansions)andtheContrasttour,

combiningnatureandmodern

architecture.Toursdepart from

its bikerentalshop.

PISCINEJOSÉPHINEBAKER

piscine-baker.fr

FloatingontheSeine,thisstriking

swimmingpoolis namedaer the

1920sAmericansinger.The25m

poolandsundeckarepopularin

thesummerwhentheroofslides

back.In JulyandAugust,plus

weekendsfromMay–September,

admissionis limitedto two hours.

BERTHILLON

berthillon.fr

Foundedin 1954,thisice-cream

makeris stillrunbythesame

family.Its 70-plusall-natural

flavoursincluderefreshingfruit

sorbetsandrichericecreams,

suchas saltedcaramel,and

pralineandpinekernels.

LE SQUARETROUSSEAU

squaretrousseau.com

Withetchedglass,a zincbarand

woodpanelling,thisBelleÉpoque

café-restaurant is a landmark. It’s

whereParisiansflockfora coee

andcroissant,a Frenchdishlike

frogs’legs,or a post-workdrink

overlookinga leafysquare.

MAISONMAISON

facebook.com/

maisonmaisonresto

HalfwaydownthestairsbyPont

Neufis thissecretspacebeneath

thebouquinistes(used-book

sellers),whereyoucanwatch

boatsfloatbyas youdineon

creationssuchas butternutsquash

andbluecheesemillefeuilleor

smokedblackmulletwithradish

dressing.Don’tmissa cocktail on

theriversideterrace.

LE PERCHOIR

leperchoir.tv

Sunsetis thebesttimeto hit this

iconic,7th-floorbarfordrinks

overlookingParis’rooops.

Greeneryprovidesshadein

summerandin winterthebaris

coveredbya sail-likecanopyand

warmedbyfires.Searchoutthe

hiddenbarin aninnercourtyard

(lior spiralling staircase).

CAFÉA

cafea.fr

Hiddeninsidea 17th-century

conventandopeningontoa

courtyardgardenstrungwith

colouredlights,thisvenuehosts

livemusic(Cuban,jazz,African,

classical),DJs,dance,cinema

nightsandfashionandartshows

in the cavernous interior.

Parishasit all:magnificent

monuments,manicuredparks,

fêtedcuisine,sublime

museums,bountifulstreet

marketsandtrend-setting

hautecouture– andlikeits

well-groomedcitizens,it looks

good, whatever the season.

CaféAisa

hiddengreen

spacebythe

Gare de l’Est

Trytheir

BealeStreet

cocktail