2020-05-01_Lonely_Planet_Traveller

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SLEEPING

THE URBAN EDIT

ILLUSTRATION: STELLA ISAAC

MAP KEY

EATING

A b uS h u k r i

A l Ay e d

A z u r a

F i r s tS t a t i o n

Ka d o s h

M a c h n e y u d a

M o d e r n

P i n a t i

SLEEPING

A m e r i c a nC o l o n yH o t e l

Po s tH o s t e l

YM C A T h r e e A r c h e s H o t e l

LIKEA LOCAL

Formorethana century,

MahaneYehudaMarket

hasbeena localplaceto

shopforfreshproduce,

spices,meat,fishand

freshlybakedbread.

It alsohaslongbeena

placeof encountersand

exchangesin Jerusalem,

whetherthrougha game

of backgammonor

conversationsin Yiddish,

HebrewandArabic.

Buildingon these

traditions,themarket’s

thrivingfoodscenehas

helpedthemarketput

downnewrootsthat

combineoldandnew,

localandforeign,classic

and creative.

BYJERUSALEM

RESIDENT

SARA TOTH STUB

CITY OF PEACE?

Peoplesay that

‘Jerusalem’ mea ns

‘city of peace’(from

shalom).In fact,it’s

namedafterthe old patron

god, Shalem,worshipped

by the city’sCanaanite

inhabitantswherethe

Dome of the Rock

now stands.

BUDGET

POSTHOTEL

theposthostel.com

Onthethirdfloorof anoldpost

oce is thiswell-runhostel.Bold

redandnavydecorandpostal-

themedmuralspayhomageto

thebuilding’spast.Thedorms

(single-sexor mixed)andprivate

roomsaresimplebutspotless.

Thebar,roofterraceandchill-out

areawithpooltablepromote a

relaxing,convivialvibe.

MID-RANGE

YMCATHREEARCHESHOTEL

ymca3arches.com

TheThreeArchesis oneof the

moderncity’smostrecognisable

landmarks.Beneaththesoaring

clocktower,themainbuildinghas

ornateceilingsandhuge,brassy

chandeliers; rooms are creakier

butclassilyattired(quality

bedlinen,crimsontrimmings

andtheoddflashof gold).

Breakfastis anastonishing

spread,madeevenbetterbythe

outdoordiningtablesbeneath

stonearchesand trees.

TOPEND

AMERICANCOLONYHOTEL

americancolony.com

EastJerusalem’sVIPchoiceis this

luxuriouscomplexbasedaround

a mid-19th-centurybuilding.The

hotelhasmuchhistoriccharm,

withmother-of-pearlinlaid

furnitureandintricatetile-work,

thoughroomssprinklejustthe

rightamountof modernityinto

themix.Standardroomshave

a classicstyle(hardwoodbeds,

flowingdrapes),while others

are more ornate.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

BUYtraditional

Palestinianembroidery

at MaherNatsheh’son

ChristianQuarterRd.

SEEthehillsof Judea

fromtheroadto Jericho.

DRINKsweetcardamom

coeeat oneof the

manyboutiquecafés.

DOtherampartswalk

onthewallsof

Jerusalem’s Old City.

MORE INFO...Pocket Jerusalem and Tel Aviv (£ 7.9 9)//Israel and the Palestinian Territories t r a v e l g u i d e (£16 .9 9)

STARRING ROLE

)Kadosh(19 9 9)
)Rana’sWedding( 2 0 0 2)
)TheBible
)Jerusalem:TheBiography
by Simon Sebag Montefiore