2020-05-01_Lonely_Planet_Traveller

(pistachio) and cevizli (walnut),
but it’s also possible to order a
karıık porsiyon (mixed portion).
(karakoygulluoglu.com)

5. SEE DERVISHES W HIRL

The 15th-century semahane
(whirling dervish hall) at the
Galata Mevlevi House Museum
is the venue for a one-hour
dervish sema (ceremony) held on
Sunday evenings. It’s the most
authentic of the city’s semas that
can be attended by tourists. Buy
your ticket the day before, or on
the morning of the performance.
(muze.gov.tr)

6. SAMPLE TURKISH WINES
   BY THE GLASS

Stocking more than 300 Turkish

wines and pouring an amazing

47 by the glass, atmospherically

lit Solera is the city’s best wine

bar. Regulars head here aer

work for a glass accompanied by

a cheese plate; many stay on for

homemade pasta or perfect

steak. Bookings advisable.

(facebook.com/solerawiner y)

7. STEP INTO A NOVEL

Nobel Prize-winning author

Orhan Pamuk’s 2008 novel

The Museum of Innocence has

given shape to a fascinating piece

of conceptual art: the real-life

Museum of Innocence occupies

a 19th-century timber house,

and its vitrines display a quirky

collection of objects that evoke

Istanbullu life in the mid- to late

20th century setting of the novel.

(masumiyetmuzesi.org)

8. TAKE THE GRANDEST
   OF TURKISH BATHS

Built in 1580 by the greatest

Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan,

and meticulously restored, Kılıç

Ali Paa Hamamı is one of the

city’sbestoptionsfora clean

andenjoyableTurkishbath

experience.Thehamam’sinterior

is simplystunningandtheplaceis

runwithtotalprofessionalism.

(kilicalipasahamami.com)

9. HAV E A HEARTY LU NCH

Notablelokantas(traditional

eateriesservingready-made

dishes)arerarein modern-day

Beyolu, so bustlingHayvoreis

to becelebrated.It specialises

in BlackSeacuisine,withpilafs,

pides(Turkish-stylepizza)and

fishsoupsbestenjoyedat lunch.

(hay vore.com.tr)

THE URBAN EDIT