2020-05-01_Lonely_Planet_Traveller

PHOTOGRAPHS:

MATT

MUNRO,

ORLA

THOMAS, RADU BERCAN/SHUTTERSTOCK,

FARBREGAS HARELUYA/SHUTTERSTOCK

NEW PLACES TO STAY

Hybrid

Hotel

BREAKFAST

BeginthedaywithPortugal’sgreatest

culinaryexport:pasteldenata.Bakery

A PadariaPortuguesais a much-lovedlocal

chain.Pickupa numberedticketandwait

yourturnto choosefroma bewildering

arrayof pastriesandsandwiches

(apadariaportuguesa.pt).

)Sweet Inn recommendation

DRINKS& DINNER

Its enviableclimatemeans

Lisbon’srooop-barseason

lastsmuchlongerthanmost

cities’.SkyBarTivoliis an

unbeatablespotfora

sundowner,withmarvellous

viewsoverthecity’srooops,

a strongcocktailandwinelist

andbarsnackswell-suited

to sunshine,suchas super-

freshfishtacos.

(skybarrooop.com/lisboa)

)Sweet Inn recommendation

CompanieslikeOnefinestaypioneered

servicedapartments– high-enddigswith

hotel-styletrappings.TheirformerCEOnow

worksforthemoreaordableSweetInn,

with 550 apartmentsacrossEuropeand

Israel.Guestscanaddpaid-forextras,

butthosewhodon’tgoforanairport

pick-up,chefor filledfridgecan

usetheapp’sfreefeatures,such

as location-specifictipsanda

WhatsAppconcierge.Our

featureseditorOrlaThomas

testedsomeoutona brief

stayin oneof its Lisbon

apartments(from£

perpersonpernight;

sweetinn.com).

LUNCH

TheMercadodeRibeirahasbeen

thecity’sgo-tospotforfreshproduce

forovera century– andis lovedby

localssinceTimeOuttransformed

halfof it intoa gourmetfoodcourtin

2014 (timeoutmarket.com). If, likeme,

youfindthe 40 kiosksoverwhelming,

retreatto seafoodrestaurant

MarisqueiraAzul,whichhasoutdoor

seatingfacingprettyPraçaDomLuís.

)Sweet Inn recommendation

EXPLORING

Tramsarea greatwayto exploreLisbon,butthe

famedsightseeingroute28Egetsverybusyin

highseason,anunhappyreplicaof mydaily

commute.SoI wanderedonfoot– particularly

in theatmosphericAlfamadistrict,a mazeof

cobbledstreets– andusedtheless-popular

side-street trams to whisk me up steep hills.

SHOPPING

Thecharmingdistrict

of PríncipeRealis

chock-a-blockwith

antiqueshopsand

independentboutiques.

I lovedthe19th-century

palace-turned-shopping

centreEmbaixada

(embaixadalx.pt),

and theperiodand

contemporaryhatshop

OsChapeleiros.

(oschapeleiros.com).