Cell-communicating ingredients use receptor
sites or cellular pathways to interact with skin
cells to signal them to function optimally.
Retinoids (including retinol), which are
derivatives of Vitamin A, are the best known.
They act as antioxidants and neutralise the
free radicals that result from exposure to ultra-
violet light. In addition, they increase cellular
turnover, stimulate a thickening of the epidermis
and promote the removal of excess pigment.
Retinol is a Vitamin A (retinoic acid)
derivative that is an effective and widely used
topical anti-ageing solution. It has been shown
to reduce many visible signs of skin ageing,
especially fine lines and wrinkles, encouraging
better cell turnover in the upper layers and
normalising skin turnover.
In the form of stabilised retinol (retinol
molecular), it enables surface hyper-pigmented
cells to be sloughed off evenly, in addition
to reversing the damaging effects of UV
light on the skin cells, which result in hyper-
pigmentation. Retinoids are also responsible
for tyrosinase inhibition, reducing clumping
of melanin and reducing melanosome size to
further improve pigmented spots.
Medical research has also documented that
the use of retinol on the skin can create new
collagen deposition, greater proliferation of new
blood vessels and capillary formation. Dramatic
improvements have also been observed with
regard to skin smoothness, evening of skin tones
and overall skin rejuvenation. Retinol also plays
a role in conditioning the skin prior to many
cosmetic procedures such as facial surgery, laser
resurfacing and chemical peels.S
K
I
N
VARYING FORMS OF
VITAMIN A
It’s well known skin rejuvenation can be
achieved by applying Vitamin A to the skin;
but sometimes the various types of Vitamin A
on the market may make it confusing when
selecting which type to use on the skin. There
are a number of related molecules with Vitamin
A activity and these are classed under the family
name of retinoids.
Prescription retinoids include tretinoin (trans
retinoic acid); the over-the-counter retinoid is
retinol. Both convert to retinoic acid in the skin.
Trans retinoic acid is the most irritant form of
Vitamin A.
It’s no secret that a common side effect after
starting topical Vitamin A treatment is temporary
redness, irritation and flakiness; most users will
need to build up a tolerance to retinoids over
several weeks. Retinol skincare has fewer side
effects than retinoic acid prescription products
due to lower biological activity, among other
factors. It also goes without saying that stabilised
high-concentration retinol formulations will be‘
It has been shown
to reduce many visible
signs of skin ageing,
GURGEKCNN[ƂPGNKPGUCPF
wrinkles.
’