National Geographic Traveller UK April 2020

JUDY JOO

is a London-based,

Korean-American

restaurateur,

TV host and

cookbook author

Judy Joo shares her love of Korean cuisine,

and her tips on where to eat in Seoul

When my Korean parents moved to New

Jersey, where I was born, my mom had to

make everything from scratch to get that

taste of home they so desperately craved.

Our porch was crowded with pots full of

fermenting delicacies and there were hangers

of drying seaweed in our garage. A small

garden produced a bounty of perilla leaves,

chillies and Korean squash. And, from time to

time, large packages would arrive from Korea,

stufed full of culinary treasures.

Preserved and fermented foods have a

long history in Korea, and kimchi (fermented

vegetables) is traditionally eaten with each

meal. Korean food is also all about the

sides; the table is laid corner to corner with

small dishes, showcasing everything from

vegetables to marinated meats and more.

When it comes to street food, meanwhile,

fried things on sticks are enduringly popular,

as are savoury pancakes, the perfect ater-

work snack with a cold beer.

This is an edited extract from Korean Soul

Food, published by White Lion Publishing

(RRP: £22).

MUST-TRY DISH

Bulgogi is thinly sliced

beef marinated in soy

sauce, sesame oil,

garlic, Asian pear juice

and ginger. Cooked

over a charcoal grill, it’s

deliciously addictive

GAESEONG MANDU KOONG

Whenever I go back to Seoul, I ind myself in

one of Insadong’s many mandu (dumpling)

restaurants. The large, plump, North Korean-

style dumplings at Gaesong are handmade

daily and stufed with a variety of illings, such

as vegetables, meat and tofu.

WHAT TO ORDER: Dumpling soup: savoury

pillows loating in a light, lavoured broth.

KALGUKSU ALLEY

Located in the bustling Namdaemun Market,

this little alley isn’t easy to ind as its hidden

behind see-through plastic sheets. Once

you emerge through these ‘doors’, you’re

aggressively greeted by ajoomas (middle-aged

women) beckoning you to eat at their stall.

WHAT TO ORDER: The ladies here are all

hawking the same thing — hand-cut noodles

in anchovy broth, topped with sliced spring

onions and dried seaweed. On a cold winter’s

day, it’s just the warming umami hit you need.

BALWOO GONGYANG

Buddhism has a long history in Korea, and the

food has always been an integral part of the

country’s cuisine. The Michelin-starred fare at

this Buddhist centre is vegan and free of alliums

and strong-smelling vegetables (though chillies

are allowed). I ind the monastic experience a

welcome respite from the busy city.

WHAT TO ORDER: The tasting menus change

seasonally, but whatever you order will give

you a taste of the very best ‘temple food’.

balwoo.or.kr

Sout h Korea

A TASTE OF

IMAGES: YUKI SUGIURA

JUDY’S TOP THREE

SEOUL RESTAURANTS

April 2020 27

SMART TRAVELLER