34 may–jun 2020 http://www.climber.co.uk
once you see it, it grows in your mind’s eye
to be one of the most beautiful sculptures,
worthy of Michelangelo or Rodin. As I led
through the rounded crux, I was rejoicing
in reminisces of Johnny’s words and, even
in the height of danger, I was thinking of
ladybirds and black lurchers.
But this lead was not where I felt most
in touch with Black Rocks. It was on two
E5s either side, Curving Arête and Pseudo-
nym, both led on-sight and in the company
of my gritstone Meister, Andy Popp, that
I felt I was a master of the crag, the Black
Rocker. As you can read elsewhere is this
article (Curving Arête – Some Funda-
mentals) Curving is a unique climb which
goes from 6b to 1b over its height, rising in
danger as it gets easier – mathematically
perfect. Pseudonym is one few people do,
with a clatter-threatening mantel onto a
glacis, whatever the fuck a glacis is. I felt
so brave and committed on these, two
of my top five experiences on the stone.
Step right for a historical classic.
Demon Rib, from crag champion Peter
Harding, is a stout and bold effort for its
day (although there are rumours that the
first ascent was not all that it appeared?).
But still, it’s a great route, the classic
E3/4 tick on the crag. Again, I did it
with Andy Popp.BACK LEFT
Going left is one of my favourite one-
star routes of all time. The Sprain at E2
5c. I remember unwrapping its unpro-
tected moves one Wednesday afternoon,
the magic and the inventiveness of
every motion making it into one of
those unassuming little gritstone routes
that I will recall on my deathbed, along
with that crisp packet swirling in the
wind.
And finally, the Promontory. Peter
Harding’s (with Tony Moulan) greatest
addition to the crag sits here, Promontory
Traverse. Its grade today is in the E1/2
range, but this belies how great a
breakthrough it was in 1945.‘Harding needed to find a method
of protection for the first pitch
of the traverse. On inspection
he found that there were two
opposing flutes in the lower break
and so a 12-inch bar of silver steel
was purchased from an ironmon-
ger’s shop opposite St Werburgh’s
church in Derby, the same shop
that sold Harding and Moulan
their sisal and plaited cotton
ropes... a route they gradedas Very Severe and described as
follows in their guide to black
Rocks: Very severe. Very exposed.
The finest climb on the cliff. Some
fine situations. PEAK ROCK. 2013.And funnily enough it’s a route I have
never done. In all the time I spent at
the crag the opportunity to lead it never
presented itself. This happened until, at
one point, I decided that if I ever do it I
will only do it with Andy Popp. If you want
to know what E9 looks like take a peek
at the bulging blunt rib beneath the end
of the first pitch of the traverse, home
to Seb Grieve’s mighty Meshuga (E9 6c).
I have to stop myself there. I could
go on and on about the oddments at
this crag and how much I love them.
But you get the idea. You might have
been once or twice and hated it; I get
that. It’s not for everyone but if you
are one of the lucky ones, who revel
in a grubby hold, a unique crux, a bit
of glass, a historical masterpiece, a
polished hold, a bomber hold, a scary
local or a flawless smear, then like me,
when someone mentions Black Rocks,
your soul will sing.
Rejoice, Black Rockers! 68 Micro-heaven. Henry
Francis latches the crucial
hold with a long stretch from
the beautiful short flake
taken by Golden Days (E2 6b).
Photo: David Simmonite
6 Tom Barnett in the upper
crack of the classic Birch
Tree Wall (VS 5a). Photo:
David Simmonite
destination