ClimberMayJune2020

http://www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2020 59

warm-ups despite having some spicy
sections. On the far left Hakuna Matata
(5.12a) is one of the finest vert walls
around; slow and steady wins the race
there. The centre of the crag has several
must-do routes, Check Your Grip (5.12a),
Spirit Fingers (5.11c), Whip-Stocking (5.11a)
and Deeper is Better (5.10b). A quick and
decisive climbing approach works well
on these routes which gently overhang
throughout their length. Right again, the
wall cranks well past the vertical, a dozen
high class, hard routes tackle overhung
walls although the best of the best is
reckoned to be Kaleidoscope (5.13c).
A mere five minutes’ walk away the
impressive testpieces at Bob Marley Crag
await four of The Red’s hardest routes:
Your Heaven, My Hell (5.14d), Fifty Words
for Pump (5.14c), South Smoke Direct
(5.14d) and Southern Smoke (5.14c) – all
tackle the massively overhanging wall in
the centre of the crag. However, numerous
more amenable routes also get plenty
of attention such as the stellar walls of

Toker (5.11a), Crosley (5.11c) and the

unlikely but brilliant Dogleg (5.12a) and

Demon Seed (5.12c). On the right Marley

Cave has several excellent lines busting

up to and through a big roof all graded

5.11d to 5.12d and stuffed with stars.

END GAME

‘The superlatives’ said Hugh Loeffler

in his essay in Stone Mountain, Jim

Thornburg’s seminal climbing photogra-

phy homage to the greatest cliffs of

North America, ‘come too easy when

discussing The Red’. Loeffler is not

wrong – his statement all too obvious

even to a freshman visitor. The Red is

simply amazing, the breadth and scope

of the climbing incredible. I will visit

The Red again for sure and do more in

the Muir Valley and Coal Bank Hollow

in the South and then I’ve got the North

crags and those at Miller Fork to go at

too. I might even go for another trip and

then just concentrate on doing trad, yes,

The Red has got it all, it really has. n

Red RiveR GoRGe South – mid-GRade SpoRt climbinG ShanGRi-la

FACT FILE

Getting There and about

Cincinnati and Lexington are well-served by flights with

minimal transfer times – two and a half and one hour

respectively. Access to and along many of the ‘dirt roads’

is best done in a SUV/4x4. These are widely available and

not much dearer to hire than a standard car.

When to Visit

Autumn is the best times to visit The Red when lower

temps and humidity are conducive to climbing harder, plus,

the snakes and insects are less active too. Spring can be

good too, but rain and seepage can be more of a problem.

accommodation

Camping is possible at Miguel’s, Lago Linda Hideaway

and Land of the Arches. Bunkhouses and cabins are also

popular, motels are limited.

Eats, Drinks and Washes

Miguel’s Pizza and the Red River Rockhouse are popular

eateries for climbers with Beattyville catering for more

cosmopolitan tastes. Groceries are best obtained from

Stanton. Drinking laws are changing in Kentucky but

(beer) take-outs are possible from The Beer Trailer and

liquor from Stanton. Daniel Boone Coffee Shop and Deli

is conveniently placed for the only laundry in the area.

Climbing Kit

Pack a stick-clip, many if not all the first bolts are 15 to 20ft

off the deck. A standard 60/70m rope and 12-16 quick-

draws are plenty. Miguel’s is the only local climbing shop.

Guidebooks

The North, The South and Miller Fork each have their own

definitive guide but if that’s too much or your visit or budget

is limited, then selected guides are also available such as

Red River Gorge Select.

access and Ownership

Of the crags covered in this article: Roadside Crag and

Muir Valley are privately owned; Roadside by Graining

Fork Nature Reserve and Muir Valley formerly by Rick

and Liz Webster who gifted it for management by the

not-for-profit Friends of the Muir Valley in 2015. The rest

of the crags are on land now owned and managed by

The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition. All crags require

climbers to sign waivers and stick to guidelines, additional-

ly, Muir Valley is subject to a $10 daily car-park charge.

Further details are within the respective guides.

Miguel’s Pizza – the famous climbers’ hang at The Red.

Chris Gore climbing Two Women Alone (5.11a) on Bronaugh Wall. Incredible climbing up the slightly

overhanging wall on biggest dinner plates ever.