ClimberMayJune2020

6 may–jun 2020 http://www.climber.co.uk

On Ben Nevis, conditions were except-

ionally good and many ascents were

made of the Minus gullies, which are

rarely in condition. The Douglas Boulder

was in great shape too, with helpful ice

on many routes, however, higher up the

mountain, the unusually icy conditions

made protecting the steeper mixed

routes particularly challenging. Despite

this, ascents were made of Sioux Wall

(VIII,8) and Darth Vader (VII,7), although

on Gargoyle Wall (VI,6), only seven

runners were found in five pitches.

Further north, Scott Grosdanoff and

Rene Lisac (Croatia) climbed the classic

Gully of the Gods (VI,6) on Beinn Bhan,

and Dave Almond and Trym Saelend

(Norway) made the third ascent of

Feast of the East (VIII,9) on the Eastern

Ramparts of Beinn Eighe. Also on Beinn

Eighe, Neil Adams and Peter Hoang

(Canada) made an ascent of the modern

classic Sundance (VIII,8) and Callum

Johnson and Lukas Klingora (Czech

Republic) came away with the fourth

ascent of Boggle (VIII,8).

In Glen Coe, Paul Ramsden and

Wadim Jablonski (Poland) climbed the

superlative Central Grooves (VII,7) on

Stob Coire nan Lochan and, higher up

on Church Door Buttress, Willis Morris

and Steve Towne (USA) made the second

ascent of Hoargasm (VII,8), followed by

Crypt Route (IV,6). A little to south on

Creag an Socach above Bridge of Orchy,

Messiah (VI,7) saw several ascents and

Neil Adams and Peter Hoang (Canada)

made the third ascent of Defenders of

the Faith (IX,9). 6

SCOTTISH

INTERNATIONAL

WINTER MEET 2020

headlines

The weather gods shone brightly on the International Winter Meet during the last week

of February. After a slow start to the winter, February storms plastered the Glen Coe

mountains and Ben Nevis with snow and the ensuing freeze thaws produced some

of the best ice conditions for several years. This was a relief to the 28 guest climbers

from 22 countries and their 28 British hosts who went on to enjoy six non-stop days

of winter climbing notching up ascents of 150 climbs from the North West to the

Southern Highlands, including six new routes.

Luca Celano and Tom Phillips
(Netherlands) laughing
through the spindrift on
Minus One Gully (VI,6), Ben
Nevis. Photo: Hamish Frost

simon Richardson reports