96 WINE SPECTATOR • MAY 31, 202088
Castle Rock Pinot Noir Mendocino County
2018 $ 13 CALIFORNIA Sleek, with savory richness
to the dark cherry, currant and raspberry flavors that turn
creamy. Floral accents enliven the spicy finish. Drink now
through 2023. 39,836 cases made.—K.M.88
Volver Monastrell Alicante Tarima 2018
$ 9 SPAIN This bold red delivers bright, rich
flavors of kirsch, candied orange, licorice and espresso.
Subtle tannins and juicy acidity give this structure. Ripe
and fruit-centered, yet light-footed. Drink now through- 30,000 cases made, 6,400 cases imported.—T.M.
New Wines From Around the World
AUSTRALIA
95 Hickinbotham Cabernet-Shiraz McLaren
Vale The Peake 2017 $ 150 Aromatic, detailed, gen-
erous and plush, featuring notes of cream soda and milk
chocolate that add a touch of polish to the concentrated
kirsch, spiced plum and blueberry flavors at the core. The
details of cigar box, espresso and palo santo show appeal-
ing precision, exhibiting harmony on the long, expressive
finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Drink now
through 2035. 120 cases made, 100 cases imported.—M.W.
94 Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Coach
House Block Single Vineyard Seppeltsfield Road
Greenock 2017 $ 125 Fragrant and distinctive, with
wild blueberry and açaí berry flavors at the core, accented
by details of Earl Grey tea, white pepper and cocoa powder.
The tannins are dense but polished, imparting a wonderful
sense of power and seamlessness that runs through the long
finish. Drink now through 2037. 50 cases imported.—M.W.
93 Hickinbotham Grenache McLaren Vale Elder
Hill 2017 $ 75 Offers a memorable mix of pure rasp-
berry, cherry and pomegranate flavors that are lush and
polished, set on a velvety frame, with notes of chai tea,
white pepper and fresh sage, showing terrific harmony on
the long, expressive finish. A hint of freshly grated nut-
meg lingers. Drink now through 2035. 377 cases made,
200 cases imported.—M.W.
93 Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Holy Grail
Single Vineyard Seppeltsfield Road Seppeltsfield
2017 $ 125 Fragrant and generous, featuring German
chocolate cake, maraschino cherry, framboise and toasted
herb notes that display plenty of throttle, set on a dense
and muscular frame. Appealing for the concentration,
with a juiciness that adds pop to the flavors. Offers a long,
lingering finish. Drink now through 2036. 50 cases
imported.—M.W.93 Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Windmill
Block Single Vineyard Stonewell 2017 $ 125 Firm
and dense, with pomegranate and raspberry flavors, reined
in by a thick mouthful of tannins. Details of gingerbread,
black walnut and baker’s chocolate linger on the finish.
Drink now through 2034. 50 cases imported.—M.W.
92 Hickinbotham Cabernet Franc McLaren Vale
The Nest 2017 $ 75 Juicy, plump cherry and plum fla-
vors are framed by black licorice, gunpowder tea, tobacco
and fresh sage notes, set across a firm, muscular frame. The
tannins become more toothsome on the finish. Drink now
through 2035. 172 cases made, 150 cases imported.—M.W.90 Alpha Box & Dice
Grenache McLaren Vale Tarot
2018 $ 20 Shows terrific purity
and intensity to the core of fresh,
bright raspberry, strawberry and
cherry flavors. A spicy thread of ce-
dar, black tea and cigar box lingers
on the muscular finish. Drink now.
4,000 cases made, 1,000 cases
imported.—M.W.DYLAN FAIRWEATHER
& JUSTIN
FAIRWEATHER
Owners90 Hickinbotham Merlot McLaren Vale The
Revivalist 2017 $ 75 Firm and savory, with good con-
centration to the toasted herb, cedar and cigar box notes
that are muscular and taut. Notes of green tea, rosemary,
loam and dried currant linger on the finish. Drink now
through 2033. 600 cases made, 240 cases imported.—M.W.
90 Pewsey Vale Riesling Eden Valley The
Contours Museum Reserve Single Vineyard Estate
2013 $ 37 Mixes a light, mouthwatering and airy frame
with aromatic flavors of beeswax, lanolin, pear and lime,
lingering effortlessly on the long, energetic finish. Shows
plenty of precision. Drink now. 150 cases imported.—M.W.
89 Clover Hill Rosé Tasmania Tasmanian Cuvée
NV $ 30 Strawberry and blood orange flavors are fresh
and light, with currant and green tea details. Lively finish.
Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 250 cases imported.—M.W.
89 Clover Hill Tasmanian Cuvée Tasmania NV
$ 30 Yellow apple, pear and lemon zest notes pop with
a touch of ginger on the refreshing, frothy finish. Drink
now. 5,000 cases made, 250 cases imported.—M.W.
87 Serafino Maglieri La Brusco Australia NV $ 15
Centered around ripe, plump blackberry and black cherry
flavors, with an appealing fizz. Black tea and black pepper
accents show on the finish, with a whiff of candied violet.
Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. Drink now.
6,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—M.W.
87 Thomas Goss Shiraz McLaren Vale 2017 $ 17
Toffee and dark chocolate notes add intrigue to the core
of black cherry, licorice and blueberry flavors, with whiffs
of smoke and spice on the muscular finish. Drink now.
6,000 cases made, 2,400 cases imported.—M.W.
86 Nugan Estate Shiraz Riverina Scruffy’s
Single Vineyard 2016 $ 17 Fresh earth and loam notes
complement the dense core of blackberry and blueberry
flavors, with herb and licorice details. Drink now. 4,000
cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—M.W.
86 Thomas Goss Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren
Vale 2017 $ 17 Crisp berry and cassis flavors are taut
and balanced, with savory herb and earth notes, showing
off black tea and spice details on the finish. Drink now.
5,000 cases made, 1,900 cases imported.—M.W.AUSTRIA
91 Prieler St. Laurent Burgenland 2016 $ 35 A
glossy red, with a fruity character, exhibiting flavors of
wild cherry and red currant at the core, while sandalwood
and hibiscus notes glide along. Shows good range and en-
ergy, extending on the mineral-infused finish. Drink now
through 2028. 111 cases imported.—A.Z.90 Judith Beck Pinot Noir Burgenland Bambule!
2018 $ 38 An idiosyncratic Pinot Noir, featuring notes
of hay and loam that frame the core of raspberry coulis
and dark cherry flavors. A funky whiff fades with air, al-
lowing this to become more spicy and herbal, with lico-
rice and thyme elements lingering on the finish. Smooth
and vibrant. Drink now through 2028. 220 cases made,
40 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Lichtenberger González Burgenland Mus-
chelkalk Rot 2016 $ 25 Hibiscus tea notes frame the
core of blueberry and damson plum flavors in this elegant,
medium-bodied red. Shows good balance and purity, with
range and intensity that persists on the well-defined,
chalky finish. Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. Drink now
through 2026. 35 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Schmelzer Austria Redition NV $ 30 This
shows a little more body, with nicely extracted flavors of
black currant and black cherry, framed by licorice, chalk
and rooibos tea notes. The tannins are substantial, pro-
viding support, while acidity lends energy. Long finish.
Zweigelt, Cabernet Sauvignon and Roesler. Drink now.
50 cases imported.—A.Z.
87 Judith Beck Austria Ink 2018 $ 17 A charm-
ing red, combining a fruity core with vibrant acidity and
light tannins. Pretty smooth and quaffable, this is a deli-
cious choice for crowd-pleasing. Zweigelt and St. Laurent.
Drink now. 2,500 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—A.Z.CHILE
Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends96 Viñedo Chadwick Puente Alto 2017 $ 330
Pure and powerful, with intense currant, red plum and
pomegranate flavors, matched to vibrant acidity. Features
concentrated minerality midpalate, leading to a finish
filled with raspberry ganache and sandalwood notes, ac-
cented by dollops of white pepper. A complex and focused
Chilean red. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink
now through 2028. 500 cases made.—K.M.
95 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Puente
Alto Gravas del Maipo 2017 $ 70 See Collectibles,
page 93.
95 Viña Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon
Puente Alto 30 th Anniversary 2017 $ 120 Com-
plex and elegant, with fine-grained tannins supporting the
dried cherry, red plum and currant flavors. Cedar and forest
floor notes show midpalate, leading to a long finish of co-
coa powder and baker’s chocolate details, accented by hints
of apple wood smoke and white pepper. Drink now through- 13,000 cases made, 2,600 cases imported.—K.M.
94 Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha
Etiqueta Negra Puente Alto 2017 $ 40 Tightly
packed dark fruit and Asian spice flavors are fine-
textured and backed by suave, medium-grained tannins.
Plush midpalate, featuring a creamy finish that extends
with hints of green olive to the dark chocolate compo-
nents. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit
Verdot. Drink now through 2028. 6,000 cases made,
1,500 cases imported.—K.M.
94 Viña Montes Alpha M Colchagua Valley 2017
$ 105 Powerful and structured, with cedar and leafy notes
to the concentrated red fruit and spice flavors. Dried green
herbal accents show midpalate, leading to a mineral-infused
finish that lingers with anise. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab-
ernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Drink now through - 5,200 cases made, 300 cases imported.—K.M.
94 Viña Seña Aconcagua Valley 2017 $ 135 A
chiseled red, with concentrated minerality and white pep-
per accents to the crisp and pure-tasting plum, cherry and
raspberry flavors. Rich sea salt and savory herbal notes
emerge midpalate, leading to a finish that lingers with
cedar and cigar box nuances. Cabernet Sauvignon, Mal-
bec, Carmenère, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink
now through 2027. 8,000 cases made.—K.M.
Spectator SelectionS: Best Values / New Releases: Australia / Austria / ChileWS053120_buying.indd 96 3/18/20 9:56 PM