91 Dr. H. Thanisch VDP Riesling Kabinett Mosel
Bernkasteler Badstube 2018 $ 27 Expressive, juicy
and seductive, with baking spice, lemon-lime and Bosc pear
flavors in harmony, supported by vibrant acidity and a
minerally undertow. Very intense at the moment, so wait
a few years, though the subtle sweetness makes this more
approachable now. Best from 2021 through 2033.—A.Z.
90 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Kabinett
Feinherb Mosel Scharzhofberger 2018 $ 28
Electric acidity adds energy to the notes of apple and pear,
while cardamom and Asian spice accents glide along the
edges. Nicely textured, offering an interplay of crunchi-
ness and silkiness. Pretty wine, but could use a year or two
to integrate. Best from 2021 through 2029. 1,000 cases
made, 56 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Willi Schaefer Riesling Kabinett Mosel
Graacher Domprobst 2018 $ 37 Shows balance and
grace, with nectarine, lime and mineral notes. Pure and
delicate, showing great range and flavor intensity. Light-
framed, displaying length on the mouthwatering finish.
Best from 2021 through 2030. 150 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Willi Schaefer Riesling Kabinett Mosel
Graacher Himmelreich 2018 $ 35 Zesty, with subtle
sweetness offset by pronounced acidity and a minerally
backbone. Apple and lemon notes mix with hints of ground
ginger and sweet spice. Shows good length and intensity.
Drink now through 2027. 150 cases imported.—A.Z.
89 Dr. H. Thanisch VDP Riesling Mosel 2018 $ 18
Elegant and off-dry, with coriander seed, lemon curd and
cardamom flavors. Vivid, but a touch of sweetness pro-
vides balance and charm. Unravels with some air to show
more spice and slate notes. Drink now through
2026.—A.Z.GERMANY
Pfalz96 Koehler-Ruprecht Riesling Auslese Pfalz
Kallstadter Saumagen R 2015 $ 68 A terrific,
medium-bodied auslese, sporting notes of allspice, car-
damom and graham cracker that frame lemon, ripe apple
and kumquat flavors. Beautifully balanced and lively,
with tangy acidity driving the elements to a long finish.
This has developed beautifully. Delicious now, and has
the potential to go further. Drink now through 2045. 15
cases imported.—A.Z.
94 Koehler-Ruprecht Riesling Spätlese Trocken
Pfalz Kallstadter Saumagen R 2015 $ 48 This has
developed beautifully, with an expansive palate, under-
scored by generous acidity that provides energy and defines
the structure. Flavors of kumquat, bergamot, dried mint
and Asian spices mingle at the core, framed by mineral
notes. Shows wonderful balance and is just starting to open
up. Meditative aftertaste. Drink now through 2034. 20 cases
imported.—A.Z.
93 Koehler-Ruprecht Riesling Auslese Trocken
Pfalz Kallstadter Saumagen 2017 $ 55 Features a
crunchy texture and prominent minerality. Still a bit tight,
but shows potential, with powerful acidity supporting the
flavors of persimmon and quince midpalate. Hints of jas-
mine and vanilla spice lead to a long, savory finish. Best
from 2022 through 2035. 40 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Koehler-Ruprecht Riesling Spätlese Trocken
Pfalz Kallstadter Saumagen 2017 $ 35 This features
a long salty undertow running through the background of
floral, orchard fruit, cardamom and blood orange flavors.
Vibrant and firm in structure, combining intensity and
grace. Could use another year or two of age, but this would
work nicely with food now. Best from 2021 through 2030.
100 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Müller-Catoir Riesling Spätlese Pfalz Bürger-
garten 2018 $ 42 A silky, smooth spätlese, with great
clarity, showing flavors of Bosc pear and peach, accented
by hints of vanilla and structured by a minerally backbone.The substantial acidity is well-integrated, keeping this
interesting and focused. Exhibits good range and length.
Best from 2022 through 2034. 100 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Koehler-Ruprecht Riesling Kabinett Trocken
Pfalz Kallstadter Saumagen 2017 $ 31 This shows
a pleasant silky texture, with savory and herbal elements
and wet stone and thyme notes. Picks up quince and dan-
delion tea accents midpalate, along with minerally crunch.
Elegant and subtle, but very charming. Drink now through- 90 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Von Winning Riesling Pfalz Deidesheimer
Leinhöhle 2018 $ 35 A floral white, with aromas and
flavors of jasmine and dandelion. Quince and apple notes
emerge midpalate, while the acidity powers through, lead-
ing to a long finish. A bit intense now and needs time to
come together. Best from 2023 through 2031. 177 cases
imported.—A.Z.
90 A. Christmann Riesling Pfalz Gimmeldingen
2018 $ 38 Glossy in texture, with powerful acidity
fueling the flavors of clementine zest, green peach and
ground ginger. Picks up salty and spice notes on the well-
defined finish. This could go well with some fattier dishes
now, but will get even better with age. Best from 2022
through 2030. 350 cases made, 20 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Koehler-Ruprecht Riesling Kabinett Trocken
Pfalz Kallstadter 2018 $ 21 A silky white, with vivid
acidity flowing through, linking the elements of dried
mango, lanolin, sage and chamomile. Complex but not
pretentious, showing great harmony overall. The finish is
long and inviting. Drink now through 2028. 650 cases
made, 200 cases imported.—A.Z.
ITALY
Piedmont94 Giovanni Rosso Barolo Serra 2015 $ 90 A
ripe, supple style, boasting cherry, menthol, thyme and
tar flavors. Linear in profile, tightly woven like a quality
fabric, and harmonious. The long finish shows potential.
Best from 2023 through 2042. 500 cases made, 75 cases
imported.—B.S.
93 Pecchenino Barolo Bussia 2015 $ 60 A sleek
red, displaying cherry, strawberry, floral, earth and tobacco
flavors. Starts out with a fleshy feel, firming up as this
winds down on the finish. Balanced and refreshing, lin-
gering with earth, tobacco and spice notes in the end.
Best from 2022 through 2038. 500 cases made, 200 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Elio Altare Langhe La Villa 2016 $ 45
Opulent and oaky, broad and concentrated, offering
vanilla, spice and chocolate notes. Balanced and vibrant,
with a long, fruit-, spice- and tar-filled aftertaste. Neb-
biolo and Barbera. Drink now through 2028. 160 cases
made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.92 Braida di Giacomo
Bologna Monferrato Il Bacialé
2017 $ 28 A rich, blackberry-
and plum-infused red, backed by
vibrant acidity and civilized tan-
nins. Hints of chocolate and spice
add interest as this finishes long.
Barbera, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sau-
vignon and Merlot. Drink now
through 2025. 2,000 cases made,
400 cases imported.—B.S.GUISEPPE &
RAFFAELLA BOLOGNA
Owners & Winemakers92 Prunotto Barbaresco Bric Turot 2015 $ 70
Cherry, hay, rose and tobacco aromas and flavors are the
highlights of this fluid Barbaresco. Firmly structured and
balanced by the sweet, ripe fruit at the core. Shows fine
length and leaves a mouthwatering impression. Best from
2022 through 2033. 210 cases imported.—B.S.New Releases: Germany / ItalyMAY 31, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 105WS053120_buying.indd 105 3/18/20 9:57 PM