91 Alberto Orte Tintilla Viño de la Tierra de
Cadiz Atlántida 2017 $ 37 Smoky and meaty notes
give this polished red a savory character, while cherry,
bramble and licorice flavors add depth. Harmonious, with
light, firm tannins and brisk acidity. Supple yet energetic.
Drink now through 2024. 225 cases made, 37 cases
imported.—T.M.
91 Bodegas y Viñedos Valderiz Ribera del
Duero 9 Meses 2017 $ 15 Fresh and focused, this red
is vibrant and expressive. Cherry, red plum, espresso, min-
eral and light earthy notes are harmonious, backed by
well-integrated tannins and balsamic acidity. Drink now
through 2027. 3,700 cases made, 180 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Castillejo de Robledo Ribera del Duero
Altos de Valdoso Crianza 2015 $ 35 Cocoa, loamy
earth and mineral notes frame a core of blackberry and
licorice flavors in this firm red. There’s a touch of auster-
ity, but also good balance and harmony. A floral finish
brings you back for another sip. Drink now through 2025.
1,000 cases made, 100 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Adega Dos Eidos Albariño Rias Baixas Eidos
de Padriñán 2018 $ 25 This white shows a generous
texture, round and polished. Ripe pear and melon flavors
mingle with ginger and spice notes, finishing with a touch
of vanilla. A ripe, rich style, yet focused. Drink now
through 2022. 4,000 cases made, 800 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Isaac Fernandez Selección Garnacha Campo
de Borja Legado del Moncayo Montaña 2017 $ 15
This generous red shows good density. Black cherry and
plum flavors are accented by smoke, dried herb and
espresso notes, supported by firm tannins and lively acid-
ity. Balanced and focused. Drink now through 2027. 5,000
cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas y Viñedos Luna Beberide Godello
Bierzo 2018 $ 23 Smoky and flinty notes frame pear,
fennel and lime zest flavors in this firm white. Features a
fleshy texture, but crisp acidity and minerality keep this
taut. Rich yet focused. Drink now through 2023. 4,100
cases made, 300 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Bodegas Castillo de Monjardin Garnacha
Navarra La Cantera 2018 $ 12 This plump red offers
cherry and red plum flavors, with leafy, smoky and vanilla
notes. Light, firm tannins provide support, while citrusy
acidity keeps this lively. Drink now through 2024. 5,000
cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Volver Alicante Tarima Made With Organic
Grapes 2018 $ 10 This energetic red delivers black
cherry, boysenberry and light earth flavors, with licorice
and espresso notes. Light, firm tannins and bright acid-
ity give this energetic structure. Fresh and lively. Drink
now through 2024. 12,000 cases made, 1,500 cases
imported.—T.M.
88 Isaac Fernandez Selección Garnacha
Calatayud Acentor 2017 $ 14 Fresh cherry and berry
flavors mingle with light herb and licorice notes in this
round, tender red. Light tannins and juicy acidity keep this
focused and fresh. Fruit-centered, but with nice subtlety.
Drink now through 2024. 1,500 cases made, 800 cases
imported.—T.M.
88 Bodegas Museum Cigales Reserva 2015 $ 20
Bright flavors of raspberry and cherry mingle with leafy
and vanilla notes in this lively red. Juicy acidity and
light, firm tannins give this focus. Polished and ener-
getic. Drink now through 2023. 30,000 cases made, 2,500
cases imported.—T.M.
88 Bodegas Santo Cristo Garnacha Campo de
Borja 50 + 2017 $ 15 Round and polished, this red is
generous yet supple. Black cherry and red plum flavors are
ripe and fresh, backed by light herbal and licorice notes.
Lively acidity and tannins keep this balanced. Drink now
through 2024. 5,000 cases made, 660 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Volver Monastrell Alicante Tarima 2018 $ 9
See Best Values, page 96.87 Mas Blanch I Jové Costers del Segre Petit
Saó 2015 $ 19 Tobacco and cedar notes frame a core
of cherry, licorice and loamy earth flavors in this gentle
red. Light tannins and orange peel acidity keep this fo-
cused through the spicy finish. Tempranillo, Grenache
and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2022.
12,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.—T.M.United States
CALIFORNIA
Chardonnay93 Lewis Chardonnay Napa Valley 2018 $ 55
Well-knit and powerfully structured, with unctuous fla-
vors of ripe pear, apple pastry and dried mango, filled with
toasty notes. The creamy finish lingers with hints of dried
sage and quince paste. Drink now through 2025. 2,400
cases made.—K.M.
92 Ram’s Gate Chardonnay Russian River
Valley El Diablo Vineyard 2017 $ 70 Plush and open-
textured, with crunchy acidity backing the apple pastry,
dried mango, ripe citrus and pear flavors. Spicy midpalate,
leading to a complex, layered finish that offers angel food
cake and sage cream accents, showing some mineral com-
ponents in the mix. Drink now through 2024. 590 cases
made.—K.M.
91 August Briggs Chardonnay Carneros Leveroni
Vineyard 2018 $ 30 This pure-tasting style offers loads
of minerality, featuring crisp apple and pear flavors that
create a pillowy texture. Creamy midpalate, with a but-
tery hints on the rich finish. Drink now through 2024.
400 cases made.—K.M.
91 Buena Vista Chardonnay Sonoma County
Private Reserve 2017 $ 55 Contoured and rich, with
concentrated ripe pear, glazed apricot and apple pastry
flavors, loaded with intense cooking spice accents. But-
tercream and dried savory notes show on the powerful
finish. Drink now through 2024. 399 cases made.—K.M.91 Chalk Hill Chardonnay
Chalk Hill 2017 $ 42 Intense
and well-structured, with flavors of
Bosc pear, Fuji apple and ruby
grapefruit, supported by firm acid-
ity. Dried savory herb notes linger
on the fresh, pure-tasting finish.
Drink now through 2023. 8,000
cases made.—K.M.COURTNEY FOLEY
Winemaker91 De Loach Chardonnay Russian River Valley
O.F.S. 2017 $ 32 Subtle notes of red berries emerge in
this vibrant white, offering a crisp blend of green apple,
pear and citrus flavors. Lemon meringue accents extend
on the finish, with zesty minerality. Drink now through- 311 cases made.—K.M.
91 Dehlinger Chardonnay Russian River Valley
Un-Filtered 2017 $ 42 A rich, minerally style, with
notes of dried savory herbs to the freshly cut apple and
green pear flavors, showing hints of tangerine. A lemon-
grass accent emerges on the crisp finish. Drink now
through 2024. 1,325 cases made.—K.M.
90 Clos Pegase Chardonnay Napa Valley
Carneros Mitsuko’s Vineyard 2018 $ 30 Lusciously
spiced, with savory components to the apple tart, ripe pear
and cream flavors. Plush midpalate, showing buttery rich-
ness on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 6,500 cases
made.—K.M.
90 De Loach Chardonnay Russian River Valley
Estate 2017 $ 68 Creamy and custardy, with white
pepper hints to the gooseberry, apple compote and dried
pear flavors. Marmalade accents show on the richly spiced
finish. Drink now through 2023. 505 cases made.—K.M.
90 Eric Kent Chardonnay Sonoma Coast
Appellation Series 2018 $ 26 This is racy and well-
structured, with flinty accents to the tensile white fruit
and mineral flavors. Green herbal notes show midpalate,
with an intensely crisp and savory finish. Should open up
with time in the cellar. Best from 2021 through 2024. 443
cases made.—K.M.
90 Lewis Chardonnay Russian River Valley
Sonoma 2018 $ 55 Well-structured, with a deep well
of ripe white fruit and spice flavors that offer buttery rich-
ness. Toast notes linger on the firm finish. Drink now
through 2023. 450 cases made.—K.M.
90 Rodney Strong Chardonnay Chalk Hill 2017
$ 22 See Smart Buys, page 95.
88 De Loach Chardonnay Russian River Valley
2018 $ 23 Fine-edged flavors of dried apple, roasted
grain and dried pear are backed by fresh acidity. Finishes
with notes of wet stone and dried savory herb. Drink now
through 2022. 10,619 cases made.—K.M.
88 Folie à Deux Chardonnay Russian River
Valley 2018 $ 18 Concentrated apple and Bosc pear
flavors are crisp and refreshing. The spicy finish delivers
minerally and savory nuances. Drink now. 25,260 cases
made.—K.M.
87 Brutocao Chardonnay Mendocino Bliss Vine-
yard 2018 $ 20 Red peach and Fuji apple flavors domi-
nate this easygoing and fruity style. Buttered toast notes
show on the finish. Drink now. 2,900 cases made.—K.M.
87 Buehler Chardonnay Russian River Valley
2018 $ 20 Custardy notes accent the ripe apple and
dried pear flavors. Fleshy midpalate, with a buttery, well-
oaked finish. Drink now. 16,000 cases made.—K.M.
87 The Federalist Chardonnay Mendocino
County 2018 $ 23 Offers a spicy aroma, with flavors
to match, complemented by dried apple and pear tart
notes and peachy accents. The fleshy finish lingers with
buttery hints. Drink now. 45,000 cases made.—K.M.CALIFORNIA
Pinot Noir95 Donum Pinot Noir Carneros West Slope
Single Vineyard 2017 $ 125 See Highly Recom-
mended, page 93.
94 Littorai Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2018 $ 60
Powerful and crisp, with mineral-infused saline elements
accenting the intense dried cherry and raspberry flavors.
Pure-tasting midpalate, featuring a finish that lingers with
savory verve. Drink now through 2026.—K.M.
93 Dehlinger Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
Champ de Mars 2017 $ 70 Elegant and suave, with
minerally richness accenting the dried cherry, plum and
pomegranate flavors. Cedar hints emerge midpalate, lead-
ing to a pure-tasting finish that offers creamy elements.
Drink now through 2026. 185 cases made.—K.M.
93 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Anderson Valley
Unforgettable 2017 $ 65 Complex and deeply
flavored, with loamy notes to the dark cherry, plum tart
and wild berry flavors, which are broad-textured and ro-
bustly spiced. The dense, powerfully structured finish lin-
gers, revealing smoky touches and sanguine richness.
Drink now through 2025. 287 cases made.—K.M.
93 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Walala
Vineyard 2018 $ 69 Complex and broad-textured,
with concentrated dark cherry and plum flavors, accented
by hints of roasted grain and touches of flint. Forest floors
notes show on the finish, revealing toasty elements. Drink
now through 2025. 600 cases made.—K.M.New Releases: Spain / UNITED STATES / California110 WINE SPECTATOR • MAY 31, 2020WS053120_buying.indd 110 3/18/20 9:57 PM