93 Jeff Cohn Zinfandel Sonoma Valley Iron Hill
Vineyard 2017 $ 45 Plump in personality and sinewy
in structure, offering orange peel, fruitcake spice and wild
berry flavors that build toward plush tannins. Drink now
through 2029. 217 cases made.—T.F.
93 San Lorenzo The Pearl Alexander Valley 2017
$ 70 A plush veneer opens to deep and gusty flavors,
offering notes of wild berry, stony mineral and brown
baking spices that build richness toward polished tannins.
Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Alicante, Grand Noir, Carignane
and Peloursin. Drink now through 2029. 120 cases
made.—T.F.
93 Seghesio Zinfandel Rockpile Rockpile 2017
$ 50 Sleekly polished and structured, with expressive
rose petal, black raspberry and smoked pepper flavors that
build tension toward broad-shouldered tannins. Best from
2021 through 2029. 1,385 cases made.—T.F.
93 Seghesio Zinfandel Russian River Valley
Montafi Old Vine 2017 $ 65 This is polished and well-
structured, with bold fruit, offering compelling wild berry,
licorice and smoked pepper flavors that build toward briary
tannins. Drink now through 2029. 283 cases made.—T.F.
92 Acorn Zinfandel Russian River Valley
Heritage Vines Alegría Vineyards 2016 $ 50
Precision meets a zesty, briary quality, with snappy rasp-
berry and blueberry flavors, accented by green peppercorn
and roasted sage notes. Finishes with sleek tannins. Drink
now through 2028. 351 cases made.—T.F.
92 Jeff Cohn Zinfandel Alexander Valley St.
Peter’s Church Vineyard 2017 $ 45 Plump and
briary, with multilayered raspberry, roasted sage and
cracked pepper flavors that build richness toward polished
tannins. Drink now through 2028. 346 cases made.—T.F.
92 Kokomo Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 2018
$ 28 A zesty and plump red, with wild berry, toasted sage
and cracked pepper flavors that build layers toward polished
tannins. Drink now through 2027. 1,200 cases made.—T.F.
92 Kokomo Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley
Pauline’s Vineyard 2018 $ 36 Expressive and well-
knit, with briary black cherry, grilled anise and spice
flavors that build tannins on a polished finish. Drink now
through 2028. 550 cases made.—T.F.
92 Ridge Zinfandel Chalk Hill Blasi 2018 $ 36
Vibrant and multilayered, featuring wild berry flavors,
accented by roasted anise and green peppercorn notes that
pick up speed toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now
through 2029. 500 cases made.—T.F.
92 Rock Wall Kent’s Legacy Heritage Blend
Sonoma County 2018 $ 100 Zesty and well-built,
with a bounty of briary aromas and flavors of cherry, wild
berry, smoky anise, espresso and smoked pepper. Zinfan-
del, Petite Sirah, Sémillon, Muscadelle and Palomino.
Drink now through 2029. 160 cases made.—T.F.
92 San Lorenzo Rock Garden Hillside Red
Alexander Valley 2017 $ 48 Rich and polished, with
plump and layered wild berry, licorice and pepper flavors
that glide on a long finish toward supple tannins. Zinfan-
del, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2028.
406 cases made.—T.F.
92 St. Francis Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley
Artisan Collection 2017 $ 48 Sleek and vibrant, with
expressive raspberry, grilled sage and licorice flavors that
build structure and zest on the finish. Drink now through- 1,060 cases made.—T.F.
91 Bucklin Zinfandel Sonoma Valley Bambino
Field Blend Old Hill Ranch 2017 $ 24 Lively and
briary, with expressive raspberry, smoky tarragon and
cracked pepper flavors that pick up speed toward well-
groomed tannins. Drink now through 2028. 569 cases
made.—T.F.
91 Jeff Cohn Zinfandel Russian River Valley
Isabel Landy Sweetwater Springs Vineyard 2017
$ 45 Polished and generous, with expressive raspberry
and blueberry flavors, laced with clove, orange peel and
smoky anise notes. Drink now through 2027. 346 cases
made.—T.F.
91 Quivira Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Black
Boar 2017 $ 50 Plump with personality and zesty
flavors, offering briary black raspberry, licorice and smoked
pepper notes. Drink now through 2028. 650 cases
made.—T.F.
91 Ridge Zinfandel Alexander Valley Boatman
2017 $ 36 Sinewy and lean, yet appealingly rustic, with
briary blueberry and cherry flavors that blend with notes
of grilled sage and white pepper. Drink now through 2028.
1,350 cases made.—T.F.
91 St. Francis Zinfandel Sonoma County Tres
Viejos Artisan Collection 2017 $ 48 A frisky red
that combines good structure with lively, briary cherry,
roasted sage and pepper flavors, picking up speed toward
fine-groomed tannins. Drink now through 2027. 1,330
cases made.—T.F.
91 Wilson Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Ellie’s Old
Vine 2017 $ 40 Expressive wild berry and anise
aromas open to plump and zesty cherry and cracked pep-
per flavors, building tannins and structure on the finish.
Drink now through 2027. 500 cases made.—T.F.
91 Wonderment Zinfandel Russian River Valley
Bacigalupi Vineyard Old Vine 2017 $ 45 Wiry and
appealingly brooding, featuring dense blueberry and black
cherry flavors, laced with licorice notes and persisting
toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2028. 120
cases made.—T.F.
90 Alexander Valley Vineyards Zinfandel Dry
Creek Valley Redemption 2016 $ 22 Briary and
plump with fruit, offering appealing cherry, spiced cinna-
mon and licorice flavors that linger. Drink now through- 2,300 cases made.—T.F.
90 Armida Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Maple
Vineyards 2017 $ 42 Refined yet briary, with raspberry
and blueberry flavors laced with toasted sage and white
pepper notes, building tension toward wiry tannins. Drink
now through 2027. 623 cases made.—T.F.
90 Armida Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Tina’s
Block Maple Vineyards 2017 $ 48 Compact and
brooding, but appealing for the deep blackberry, smoky
anise and sage flavors that take on tension toward fine-
grained tannins. Best after 2020. 381 cases made.—T.F.
90 Dutton-Goldfield Zinfandel Russian River
Valley Dutton Ranch Morelli Lane Vineyard 2017
$ 50 Structured and tightly focused, with refined cherry
and blueberry flavors, accented by dill and white pepper
notes. Drink now through 2029. 237 cases made.—T.F.
90 Kokomo Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Timber
Crest Vineyard Winemaker’s Reserve 2017 $ 40
Plush and briary, with zesty raspberry, underbrush and
licorice flavors that finish with snappy tannins. Drink now
through 2026. 500 cases made.—T.F.
90 Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma County Old
Vine 2017 $ 40 Wiry and briary, with medium-bodied
blackberry, smoky meat and pepper flavors that persist
toward snappy tannins. Drink now through 2029. 5,704
cases made.—T.F.
90 St. Francis Zinfandel Moon Mountain District
Montecillo Vineyard Artisan Collection 2017 $ 48
Tightly knit at the core, with a stony mineral streak
running through, accented by subdued cherry and dried
herb notes. Finishes with a bite of tannins. Best after 2020.
910 cases made.—T.F.
89 Beran Zinfandel Sonoma County 2017 $ 22
A sturdy red, with tightly wound black cherry, toasty and
espresso flavors that build toward well-buffed tannins.
Best after 2020. 2,575 cases made.—T.F.
89 St. Francis Zinfandel Sonoma County Old
Vines 2017 $ 22 Easygoing and lively, with super ripe
dried cherry, licorice and ground pepper flavors that
linger on a jammy finish. Drink now through 2026. 38,400
cases made.—T.F.
88 Alexander Valley Vineyards Zinfandel
Alexander Valley 2017 $ 20 Supple and easygoing,
with lively cherry and briary black pepper flavors. Drink
now through 2025. 4,400 cases made.—T.F.
88 Artezin Zinfandel Mendocino County Old
Vine 2018 $ 16 Snappy and fruit-forward, with appeal-
ing cherry, dried sage and licorice flavors. Drink now
through 2024. 16,650 cases made.—T.F.
87 Alexander Valley Vineyards Zinfandel
Alexander Valley Sin Zin 2016 $ 20 Soft and zesty,
with easygoing baked cherry and smoky spice flavors.
Drink now. 2,380 cases made.—T.F.NEW YORK
Finger Lakes / Riesling92 Forge Riesling Seneca Lake Bellows 2018
$ 34 Peach, singed almond and beeswax notes give this
a rich yet tense feel, with a zing of grapefruit oil lining the
finish. Drink now through 2024. 50 cases made.—J.M.
91 Forge Riesling Seneca Lake Dry Peach
Orchard 2018 $ 28 This is focused, with nectarine
and bitter almond notes spliced together, backed by citrus
oil and jasmine accents on the finish. Sneaky long. Drink
now through 2023. 130 cases made.—J.M.
91 Forge Riesling Seneca Lake Dry Railroad
2018 $ 28 Lively and unctuous, with a mix of clemen-
tine, nectarine and jasmine oil notes, backed by a pink
grapefruit detail on the finish. Outgoing and distinctive.
Drink now through 2023. 100 cases made.—J.M.90 Fox Run Riesling Seneca
Lake Hanging Delta 2016 $ 30
Quince, almond and pear flavors
mark this mature-seeming Riesling,
with notes of acacia and heather
on the gentle-edged finish. Drink
now. 185 cases made.—J.M.PETER BELL
Winemaker90 Fox Run Riesling Seneca Lake Lake Dana
2016 $ 30 Features an off-dry edge, with nectarine and
apricot flavors forming the core. Almond, orange blossom
and acacia notes add range on the plump finish. Drink
now through 2021. 181 cases made.—J.M.
90 Fox Run Riesling Seneca Lake Silvan 2018
$ 25 A fresh, dry style, with a piercing edge to the mix
of acacia, jasmine and white peach flavors. Shows good
tension on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 357 cases
made.—J.M.
90 Silver Thread Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 2018
$ 18 Fresh, with white peach, jicama and star fruit notes,
backed by racy acidity that gives this a chiseled feel on
the finish. Drink now through 2023. 300 cases made.—J.M.
90 Silver Thread Riesling Finger Lakes Gridley
Bluff Point Vineyard 2018 $ 26 Zingy, featuring
yellow apple and peach fruit, laced with a quinine thread.
Turns toward the plumper side on the finish, with a lemon
curd note echoing. Drink now through 2021. 50 cases
made.—J.M.
90 Silver Thread Riesling Finger Lakes Semi-
Dry 2018 $ 18 Stylish, with a beam of yellow apple,
white peach and yuzu flavors gliding through. Polished in
feel on the finish, showing subtle underlying tension.
Drink now through 2021. 200 cases made.—J.M.New Releases: California / New YorkMAY 31, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 113WS053120_buying.indd 113 3/18/20 9:57 PM