54 WINE SPECTATOR • MAY 31, 20201800 Milenio, 80 proof, $ 190
Created to celebrate the millen-
nium, this now qualifies as an extra
añejo, a category that didn’t exist
in 2000. The Milenio distinguishes
itself with a finish in former
Cognac casks after the initial
aging. Very complex, with caramel,
toffee, cocoa and tobacco notes,
while maintaining the smoothness
of Canadian whisky.
Casa Dragones Añejo, 80 proof, $ 140
The producer’s first foray into
añejo tequila (joining its blanco
and joven expressions) is a blend
of liquids aged in new American
and French oak casks, both
toasted. The process yields a sub-
tle mélange of flavors, with semi-
sweet berry, cocoa and toffee
meeting pepper and rosemary.
(To be released in May.)
Casamigos Añejo, 80 proof, $ 50
George Clooney cofounded this
brand, now owned by spirits giant
Diageo. Aged in reconditionedAmerican whiskey barrels, this
expression was created for
smoothness but shows off notes
of spice, tropical fruit, leather and
rich woods.
Casa Noble Selección del Fundador
Vol. II, 83 proof, $ 1 , 500
Casa Noble was cofounded by
Carlos Santana (he has since sold
his stake), and this release—triple-
distilled and aged eight years in
French oak barrels—comes closest
to approximating one of the musi-
cian’s soaring guitar solos. Notes
include dried peach, cocoa, cinna-
mon, caramel, truffle and vanilla.
Cazadores Reposado, 80 proof, $ 22
Aged in small casks of new Ameri-
can oak, this Highland reposado
offers a bit of maturity while
maintaining the essential agave
spice for purist enthusiasts of the
category. Features notes of pear,
caramel and cinnamon.Tasting notes continuedon page (^56) BOT
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and “Lowlands” (El Valle). Broadly, agave from the former tends
to make sweeter, fruitier tequila, while the latter results in spirit
that is earthier and spicier.
The consequence of improved consumer awareness is that the
premium end of the tequila market has led the boom. According
to Impact Databank, a sister publication of Wine Spectator, imports
of 100% agave tequila to the U.S. increased 12% in 2019 and com-
prised 58% of all tequila imports. Top-shelf tequila has changed
from a treat to a quaff worthy of savoring throughout the year.
Even without aging, tequila takes a substantial amount of time
to make. That’s mainly due to the extensive ripening period of
agave. The huge plants take a minimum of six years to mature, and
the process can last into the teens. Periodic agave
shortages further spotlight the problem. After years
of waiting for their plants to get to the distillation
stage, producers have tended to forgo long aging be-
fore releasing their bottlings. But the recent growth
in the whisky market has made drinkers more aware
of the possibilities of wood aging across the board.
For producers, what mitigates the daunting prospect
of adding maturation to the production cycle is the
relatively short amount of time it takes to age tequila
in cask. Because Mexico has year-round hot weather,
the spirit quickly infuses itself into the staves and re-
trieves flavors from the wood while softening some of
its raw edges. At two months old, a tequila is consid-
ered “rested” (reposado), a mark of distinction. At
more than three years, it receives the extra añejo des-
ignation, a category only established in 2006.
By Scotch standards, the first category wouldn’t
even be considered whisky; the second would just
barely qualify, and would certainly be nothing to
brag about. Nevertheless, the relatively short aging period brings
loads of flavor to tequila.
Former Bourbon barrels are the traditional aging vessel for te-
quila, largely due to their availability. They’re easily shipped from
the U.S. to Mexico and cost less than other types because Bourbon
makers can use a cask only once. But some tequila brands are tak-
ing a page from the Scotch playbook and employing European
wood, either exclusively or as finishes to Bourbon-matured spirits.
The results can be arresting, imparting notes of Cognac and wine.
See “Aged Expressions” (below) for our recommendations.
Jack Bettridge is senior features editor of Cigar Aficionado and
contributing spirits editor for Wine Spectator.
A worker carries a blue agave piña, the sugar-rich heart of the succulent used to distill tequila.
AGED EXPRESSIONS
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