2020-05-31_Wine_Spectator

86 WINE SPECTATOR • MAY 31, 2020

vines from the sun’s burning rays. The result was that damage was

minor in the Côte d’Or. In Chablis, however, frost over 10 nights

in April reduced the crop by 40% to 70%, according to Didier

Séguier, cellar master of William Fèvre.

The flowering was early and fast. Jadot’s Barnier reports that it

was a bit hot for the Chardonnay vines, causing some berries to

drop and others to develop millerandage, a condition where some

berries in a cluster are tiny and seedless.

May and June were hot and dry, the temperatures finally cooling

off at the end of June into July, when some welcome rains fell. Cloudy

weather also meant that the lack of sun slowed down the ripening

of the grapes, particularly the polyphenols in the skins and seeds.

The end of August saw a return to hot days, with rain on Aug.

31 increasing the juice in the berries. Yet the dry weather overall

led vintners to wait before picking to ensure the skins and seeds

were ripe, despite high sugar levels. Most began harvest the first

week of September, with the dry conditions that continued into

September helping to keep concentration in the Pinot Noir. The

fruit was healthy, with very little, if any, sorting.

It’s rare for Burgundy to see a year like 2017, where the cellars

are full and the wines are of high quality. The balance and charm

of the 2017s make them enjoyable young, but I’m sure there will be

some surprises over the next 20 years if you can hold off on open-

ing the top wines. The good news is that if you choose carefully ac-

cording to your budget, it’s hard to go wrong with the 2017 reds.

Senior editor Bruce Sanderson is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on the

wines of Burgundy.

At Louis Jadot, technical director Frédéric Barnier relied on the aging process to

achieve success in 2017 , giving his highly rated reds time to evolve in barrel.

Rating Red Burgundy Vintages in the Côte de Nuits

Rating Red Burgundy Vintages in the Côte de Beaune

2017 94 Balanced, fresh and approachable wines with purity; the best have the structure to age 20 years Drink or hold

2016 97 Fresh, juicy and elegant, revealing dark fruit flavors; spring frosts drastically reduced yields in some areas Drink or hold

2015 98 Spring rains offset the hot, dry summer, resulting in lush and ripe yet balanced reds at all levels Drink or hold

2014 95 Juicy cherry and berry flavors, with freshness and tension; lower alcohol. The best have added depth and energy Drink or hold

2013 92 Low yields resulted in crisp, light-bodied Pinot Noirs with vibrant acidity and ripe fruit flavors Drink or hold

2012 95 Dense, concentrated reds, with pure fruit, elegance and freshness; the best should age very well Drink or hold

2011 91 Elegant, perfumed wines, with vibrant acidity, pure fruit and juicy textures for near- to medium-term enjoyment Drink or hold

2010 94 Ripe fruit and tannins, with vivid acidity; vibrant, charming reds with balance and focus Drink or hold

2009 95 Charming and fluid, with ripe, pure fruit; some wines soft, overripe, for early drinking Drink or hold

2008 91 Late harvest and small crop; strict sorting necessary for vibrant reds with flesh and concentration Drink

2017 93 A good crop following the previous vintage’s frost; fruity, balanced and charming reds Drink or hold

2016 94 The best are better than 2015 , but tiny yields where frost hit; elegant and expressive, vibrant and juicy Drink or hold

2015 95 Ripe and fleshy, with some assertive tannins in the wines from areas where hail struck the previous three vintages Drink or hold

2014 93 Third consecutive year of hail resulted in low yields, yet the best are complex, juicy and ageable Drink or hold

2013 89 A more challenging harvest due to hail, with tiny yields in the affected areas and some wines with dry tannins Drink or hold

2012 92 Less consistency than Côte de Nuits due to hail, resulting in less harmony and finesse overall, with some surprises Drink or hold

2011 90 Open and charming wines, full of pure aromas and flavors of red fruits and spice Drink or hold

2010 91 Fruity, ripe and vibrant; more rain than Côte de Nuits, so quality is less consistent Drink or hold

2009 93 Charming and fluid, with ripe, pure fruit; some wines soft, overripe, for early drinking Drink or hold

2008 89 Late harvest and small crop due to dehydration, botrytis; pure, vibrant reds at best, but inconsistent Drink

Noteworthy older vintages: 2005 , 2003 , 2002 , 1999 , 1996 , 1993 , 1990 , 1989 , 1988 , 1985

A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling; many wines of the vintage not yet reviewed.

Vintage ratings: 95 - 100 , classic; 90 - 94 , outstanding; 85 - 89 , very good; 80 - 84 , good; 75 - 79 , mediocre; 50 - 74 , not recommended Drinkability: “NYR” means most of the wines of the vintage are

yet to be released; “drink” means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature.

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