PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMIE CHUNG
Dairy
Downturn
ADDING A SPLASH of milk to a morning cup
of coffee was once the simplest of routines.
Until soy, almond, oat, and an array of other
plant-based milks started competing for the
cups of environmentally and health-
conscious consumers.
Dairy companies feel the pain. Two
of America’s biggest, Dean Foods Co. and
Borden Dairy Co., went bankrupt in late
2019 and early 2020. In its bankruptcy peti-
tion, Borden disclosed that its annual inter-
est cost was about $21 million, and that
was on top of quarterly debt payments
totaling $2.35 million. Dean listed debts of
more than $1 billion.
While consumption of cheese and
yogurt continues to grow, demand for milk
fell more than 25% from 2000 to 2018,
according to U.S. Department of Agriculture
data. Dairy companies have also lost sales
to retailers such as Walmart Inc., which now
produces its own milk.
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