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Image Rescue
How to save a classic overexposed reflection photo
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Dereliction duty
Q
I have access to
a derelict building.
Any tips for
capturing all the detail?
Te d dy M os s
A
First of all, take care: old
buildings can be dangerous.
Take a tripod, as derelict
buildings can be quite
dark, and you may need to use
longer exposures and higher ISOs.
To get all the detail you want, try
an HDR approach. Shoot using your
autobracketing feature, and shoot three
shots at -2, 0 and +2 EVs. This will allow
you to make a detail-packed HDR file
in Lightroom or Camera Raw.
Long memory
Q
How long should a
memory card last?
Jody Weir
A
Most memory cards are
surprisingly robust and can
withstand general wear and
tear – even immersion in water
if you dry them out carefully. I have cards
that have been going for years without any
issues, even if they look a bit weathered
on the outside. SD cards need a bit more
care than more robust formats like
CompactFlash, as they’re lighter in build
and their contacts are exposed, but both
formats should serve you well over a long
period of time. To extend their life, keep
them stored in a suitable container or
wallet while you’re travelling, so they
don’t roll about loose in your bag.
Slow flash
Q
What’s the point
of a technique like
slow-sync flash,
and when would you use it?
Ron Houseman
A
Slow-sync flash allows you to
combine a burst of flash with
a long exposure, so you can
capture low ambient light with
action-freezing flash. It can create quite
a dynamic sense of movement in your
photo. This photo was taken at 1/10 sec
using rear-curtain flash.
A long exposure
helps to blur the
background, while
flash freezes the
foreground action.
This water reflection shot has been
overexposed by a stop or so, but because
it’s a raw file, there’s a good chance I can
get some detail back using Lightroom. To
start, let’s crop the photo a small amount
just to tighten up the composition, paying
close attention to the corners^1. Now
I can work on the reflection^2 by taking
the Highlights slider back to -100, then
nipping the Exposure slider back
to -30. The colours will still look
flat, but I’ll sort that later.
In the HSL Panel, I choose Luminance
and individually darken the Orange, Green
and Blue sliders to balance the overall
exposure and then switch to Saturation
and boost each of those same three colour
channels^3. It will still lack a little bit of
punch across the whole image, but using
the Tone Curve I can improve that,
by choosing Medium Contrast from
the Point Curve dropdown menu^4.