16 FOOD AND DRINK
THE IMPORTANCE of the former
railway paths to the residents of the
city has been clearly illustrated in
recent weeks. The response to the
option to route a tramline along the
“Roseburn corridor” has caused
consternation, especially among
cyclists and local community groups.
Though long mooted, the real
possibility that it might happen has
raised the temperature. The fierce
online debate it has stirred has
illustrated how difficult it is to
balance competing interests when it
comes to transport issues.
One of the best sections of the
path network is to be found snaking
through Trinity and towards
Newhaven. This takes you through a
densely wooded part of the city and
is well used. Superb green spaces
such as Victoria Park connect with
the path. A great treat at the start or
end of a long walk or cycle is the
chance of a cracking coffee.
MILK, at Edinburgh Sculpture
Workshop (ESW) in Hawthornvale,
hits the mark. On my last visit, a
group of (slightly mud-spattered)
cyclists were clearly delighted to have
found a warm, dry and comfortable
spot for refreshment. A sense of food
and drink well earned!
What can set cafés apart is the
environment. Here, the abundance
of glass gives the place a very light
and open feel. Many of the tables
provide a view out into the courtyard
of the sculpture workshop - at times
you will see unique creations being
forged - at other times just works in
progress. Something to chew over
and think about as you eat and sip.
Generally, any sun is captured here,
while the generous wooden tables
also add to the sense of warmth,
balancing against the preponderance
of concrete and tinges of brutalism
that pervades the area. Lying lower
than the surrounding streets, the café
space is a nestled nook. In good
weather, the substantial seating area
outside is a very desirable spot and
with so many dogs walked along the
paths, the place prides itself on being
dog friendly.
This is one of three locations - the
others are on Morrison Street and a
“coffee shack” in Inverleith Park
(next to the Sundial Garden).
Ultimately, the experience for any
coffee lover is determined by what
they are served. The cortado I had on
my last visit was particularly well
made. This fantastic little drink is
often misunderstood. It is usually
defined as having a 1:1 milk to
espresso ratio, with the milk cutting
through the intensity of the espresso,
toning down its acidity a notch whileretaining the coffee’s flavour. A small,
more intense flat white, in some sense.
How it tastes is determined by
how well the espresso is “dialled in”
and how well the textured milk and
espresso are blended. MILK uses
beans by the roasters Santu. Their
beans come from Espirito Santo, a
renowned coffee producing region of
Brazil. Santu also has its own snug
coffee bar on the Canongate, nearby
the Museum of Edinburgh and the
Canongate Kirk.
At the weekend, MILK at
Hawthornvale is generally
brimming. If you want to secure a
table at lunchtime it’s advisable to
book ahead. The menu varies with
the seasons, but staples include
focaccia sandwiches, salads, soups
and stews. A Chicken Souvlaki adds
a Greek flavour, though there are
plenty of vegan and veggie options.
To complement the coffee, there is
usually a good range of baking.
MILK is a reason to make your way
along the superb Edinburgh path
network. A well-made coffee
provides a great incentive to keep
going in drizzly, muddy conditions
so prevalent in the Scottish winter.
MILK at ESW
21 Hawthornvale, EH6 4JT
http://www.cafemilk.co.uk/sculpture-
workshopMILK chisels out a special place on Edinburgh coffee scene
44 44 1 44 2 44 3 44 4 44 5 44 447 44 844 44 44 44 44 4444 1044 44 44 44 44 44 4444 12 1344 44 44 44 44 44 44 4415 44 16 1744 44 44 44 44 44 44 4419 44 2044 44 44 44 44 44 4444 2244 44 23 44 44 44 4424 4444 44 44 44 44 44 44 444444444444444444444444691114182144CAFÉ SCENE: MILK By Charlie Ellis
Lazy like a lobster on Mondays
ONDINE on George IV Bridge is
opening on selected Mondays
serving East Neuk lobsters on a set
three course menu. A half lobster
will be served simply grilled with
garlic butter and a side of Koffman
Fries after a starter of smoked
salmon mousse with whisky cider
jelly and soda bread.
If you still have room then
there is a little chocolate pot
with crème fraiche and aMadeleine to finish.
Ondine Oyster & Grill has
specialised in seafood and
shellfish since 2009 under the
direction of owner and chef Roy
Brett. The emphasis in the
restaurant is on the fishermen
who provide the freshest and
most sustainable produce.Three courses are priced at £
ondinerestaurant.co.ukACROSS
7 TREATHUSSARS (anagram)
(7, 4)
9 Complained, moaned (8)
10 Boundaries (6)
11 Harden (5)
12 Tourist, visitor (9)
14 Inflatable toy (7)
16 So-so (7)
18 Gave up (9)
20 Begin (5)
21 One belonging to a club (6)
22 Harsh, shrill (8)
24 Fact-based programme (11)7 ACROSS is a notable Edinburgh feature.DOWN
1 Horse’s home (6)
2 Greater than the speed of
sound (10)
3 Inquire (3)
4 Demean (8)
5 Try very hard (6)
6 Humphrey Bogart’s
Casablanca co-star (6, 7)
7 In an expected way (2, 5)
8 Confused, bewildered (13)
13 Stadium’s main seating area
(10)
15 Luxury, richness (8)
17 School, college (7)
19 Wanderers (6)
20 Coil shape (6)
23 Demon (3)On the right track
CROSSWORD By Aldhelm
SOLUTION7 Arthur’s Seat, 9 Grumbled, 10 Limits, 11 Inure, 12 Sightseer, 14 Balloon, 16 Average, Across:18 Renounced, 20 Start, 21 Member, 22 Strident, 24 Documentary.1 Stable, 2 Supersonic, 3 Ask, 4 Belittle, 5 Strive, 6 Ingrid Bergman, 7 As usual, Down:8 Disorientated, 13 Grandstand, 15 Opulence, 17 Academy, 19 Nomads, 20 Spiral, 23 Imp.