LEITH, with its burgeoning food scene, has long
been a go-to for discerning diners, but few
places encapsulate the essence of fine dining like
ASKR. Tucked away on Constitution Street but
easily accessible on the tram line, this intimate
26-seat restaurant offers a dining experience that
is both sophisticated and welcoming. Helmed by
the talented Chef Dan Ashmore, ASKR stands
out, not only for its coal-fired cooking, but also
for its commitment to using local produce and
inventive techniques that transform simple
ingredients into culinary masterpieces.Dan Ashmore’s careerDan Ashmore’s culinary journey is nothing
short of impressive. Beginning his career at just
15, Dan has honed his skills in some of the
UK’s most prestigious kitchens. From his early
days at the Michelin-starred Fischers at Baslow
Hall to his time at the acclaimed The Square in
London, and later at Edinburgh’s Number One
and The Pompadour by Galvin, Dan’s
experience is extensive. His leadership at these
establishments earned him accolades, including
3 AA Rosettes and a Michelin Plate. After a
stint as Executive Chef for Scotland at Gordon
Ramsay Restaurants, Dan returned to
Edinburgh, joining the Dean Banks Group,
where he continues to push culinary
boundaries at ASKR.A cosy and stylish escapeWalking into ASKR, you’re immediately struck
by its charm. The compact space is tastefully
decorated with an impressive artwork in the
bar area. Despite arriving at ASKR drenched
from a sudden downpour, the warmth of thewelcome from Rich, the front-of-house
manager, quickly brightened my spirits. Rich
previously ran the much-loved Field before the
pandemic, and he brings a wealth of experience
and a personal touch that makes you feel
instantly at home.
ASKR’s philosophy revolves around
sustainability and zero waste, evident in their
creative use of fermentation. The bar is filled up
with Kilner jars filled with house-made
concoctions like rose syrups and strawberry
top syrups, which are used in both cocktails
and dishes. It is this attention to detail and
commitment to reducing waste that sets this
restaurant apart.A journey through flavourASKR’s menu is thoughtfully divided into four
sections: bar snacks and sharing plates,
traditional starters, main courses, and desserts.
We began our evening with a couple of
cocktails that perfectly showcased the
restaurant’s ingenuity. The Sunshine on Leith is
a refreshing take on a negroni, infused with
Limoncello, while the Discarded Pineapple
sour uses pineapple trimmings to create a
tangy, waste-not-want-not drink. These were
accompanied by flatbreads cooked over coals,
served with a smoky aubergine baba ganoush
that was so delicious, we found ourselves
wishing for more bread to soak up every last
little bit.
The oysters were a revelation—one poached
in its own juices over coals and served with a
vibrant English wasabi butter, while the other
was served natural with a zesty lime and
jalapeño granita. The presentation alone was
enough to impress, and judging by my dining16 FOOD AND DRINK 17
A RELATIVE NEWCOMER to the
city’s coffee scene, Little Havana in
Leith is an outstanding example of
warm and engaging customer service
- and excellent coffee.
This compact takeaway and coffee
supplier near the foot of the walk is an
offshoot of the tobacco store next
door, The Pipe Shop, established in
- For proprietor Steven MacKenzie,
it was the deep knowledge of the area
that meant the business was well-
placed to diversify. While he concedes
that rum and whisky might seem the
natural path, Steven feels that coffee
fits the zeitgeist much better. Frankly
he admits, dealing with drunk
punters was not something he
wanted. Coffee has a different vibe.
So far he’s enjoyed “good feedback
and footfall” and feels the business is
evolving nicely.
It’s a family business with Steven’s
wife Ruth and his daughter also
working in the shop. They have a
good number of regulars, but Little
Havana is equally welcoming to new
customers. While I was there, they
had visitors from Germany and
Cumbria, as well as a pair involved in
the Foodies Festival. With them all,
Steven went beyond the typical small
talk and made genuine connections.
Little Havana has built up mutually
supportive relationships with other
businesses in the area. In particular,
he points people in the direction of
Kvasa Bakery across the street (“the
guys there really deserve to do well- they work very long hours”) and
Remedy up the road (“best breakfasts
in town”).
He feels that there is “a gap in the
market” for places such as Little
Havana - offering something a bit
different from the chains and from
the specialty places, such as Artisan
Roast, just a few metres aong the
street. He sees Little Havana as
primarily a coffee supplier, offering an
extensive range of beans.
They presently have about 30
coffees but he hopes to expand that to
50, extending the range of countries
represented: “Our place isn’t a
homage to any particular type of bean
or region”. For espresso-based drinks
they usually offer a fairly dark roasted
Brazilian blend.
This is a bit different to the lighter
roasts prioritised by the speciality
places. A darker style is something
more familiar to those from southern
Europe. Not a bad idea given the
number of Spanish and Italian people
in Leith, even post-Brexit.
For Steven, it’s all a learning
experience, with the business evolving
organically as he meets new
customers and engages with new
suppliers. He’s also planning to extend
the range of teas available. “I feel that
with the amount of good cafes around
here and places like Pekoe Tea, this
area can become a tea and coffee
centre”.
A joiner by trade, Steven has done
the interior himself, aiming to
produce something “basic and clean”.
The large front windows allow the sun
to stream in, giving the place an airy
uncluttered, almost minimalist feel.
On a bench outside you can watch
the trams trundle past and cyclists
zig-zagging down the Walk. On a July
morning, it was warm enough even
for iced coffee, creating a bit of a
“continental feel”.
For Steven, the trams coming to
Leith have been a boost to business,
including his: “It’s helping to bring
people to Leith”. The area is noticeably
changing, such as the pub next door- from a spit and sawdust place to one
with a noticeably “hipster clientele”.
Communal hub with Cuban flair which walks the Walk
Culinary capers in the capital with Kerry Teakle
44 2 44 3 44 4 44 5 44 6 44 44 4444 844 44 44 44 44 44 4444 1044 44 44 44 44 44 44 4444 12 13 1444 44 44 44 44 44 44 4444 16 1744 44 44 44 18 44 44 44 4420 44 2144 44 44 44 44 44 44 4423 44 2444 44 44 44 44 44 4425 4444 44 44 44 44 44 44174444444444444494411441544192244CAFÉ SCENE: LITTLE HAVANA COFFEE STORE By Charlie Ellis
Chef Ashmore is on fire with coal-inary experience at new place
Can’t ASKR for more at
Leith fine dining gem
ACROSS
7 RASHLEGALVOW (anagram)
(7, 5)
9 Making one’s mind up (8)
10 Show to be true, prove (6)
11 Shrewd, clever (6)
12 Way in (8)
15 Sailing event (7)
16 Diplomatic (7)
19 Elastic (8)
21 Call into question, criticise
(6)
22 Turkish capital (6)
24 Poison cure (8)
25 Dejected, dispirited (12)7 ACROSS was set in Edinburgh.DOWN
1 Evaluation, appraisal (10)
2 Give up, surrender (10)
3 Least ornate (8)
4 Arrogant gait (7)
5 Hedge plant (6)
6 Gone, finished (4)
8 Aromatic herb (5)
13 From the opposite side of
the world (10)
14 Zucchini (10)
17 Flying (8)
18 Despotism (7)
19 Roofing stone (5)
20 Opportunity (6)
23 Dry, parched (4)Leith’s Little Havana
companion’s reaction, the taste matched the
aesthetics.
For starter, I opted for the Beetroot with
Katy Rodgers Crème Fraîche. This dish is a
work of art, with beetroot cooked overnight
over coals, then dehydrated to intensify its
flavours, served with ribbons of beetroot,
blackened apple purée, and crème fraîche. A
dramatic pour of Granny Smith consommé
over the dish added a touch of theatre, making
it as visually stunning as it was delicious. My
companion chose the Beef Tartare with Soy
Egg - a dish that balances textures and flavours
beautifully, proving that raw beef can be both
delicate and rich.A symphony of flavoursThe main courses continued the theme of
excellence. I selected the Guinea Fowl with
Plum Sauce, which was perfectly cooked and
served with barbecued spring cabbage and
broccoli purée. My companion’s Day-Boat
Caught Fish—a robust cod paired with
Parmesan gnocchi, Shetland mussels, globeCROSSWORD By Aldhelm
SOLUTION7 Shallow Grave, 9 Deciding, 10 Verify, 11 Astute, 12 Entrance, 15 Regatta, 16 Tactful, Across:19 Stretchy, 21 Impugn, 22 Ankara, 24 Antidote, 25 Disconsolate.1 Assessment, 2 Capitulate, 3 Plainest, 4 Swagger, 5 Privet, 6 Over, 8 Thyme, 13 Down:Antipodean, 14 Courgettes, 17 Aviation, 18 Tyranny, 19 Slate, 20 Chance, 23 Arid.Yet, Steven believes, Leith retains its
distinct character - he’s also proud to
stock local magazines. (delivery of
The Edinburgh Reporter imminent!)
One aspect of coffee he’s focusing
on is decaf, aware that too much
caffeine isn’t ideal: “Working here I
enjoy drinking coffee a bit too much.”
The samples of decaf I tried were
very flavoursome, not the bland beans
I’ve often tried.
Another aspect Little Havana tries
to emphasise is sustainability, trying
to reduce the amount of plastic used
and giving discounts to those who
bring along containers for their beans
and their own coffee cups.Above all, the place manifests a
passion for coffee and a desire to
constantly expand their knowledge of
beans and brewing methods.
The next stage of the business will
be to recruit an experienced barista.
Steven said: “I’d like to give them a
lot of autonomy about the beans and
blends we use.”
Already, Little Havana has shown
great promise and is an example of
the way in which the very best places
serve great coffee but also act as
vibrant communal hubs.Little Havana Coffee Store
94 Leith Walk, Edinburgh EH6 5HBartichoke, olives, and beurre blanc—was
equally satisfying. Each dish was served on
crockery that was as much a work of art as the
food itself.
Desserts were a fitting finale. I had the Tonka
Crème Brûlée with a quenelle of cinnamon ice
cream - an indulgent, yet balanced dessert that
wasn’t too sweet. My companion’s Chocolate
Crémeux with almond praline and orange was
a decadent treat that perfectly rounded off the
meal. Instead of selecting one bottle of wine,
we trusted Rich to pair each dish with
individual wines. ASKR works exclusively with
Liberty WinesA must visit destinationASKR offers one of the best value-tasting
menus in town, with a six-course midweek
menu available Tuesday to Thursday for £45.
Quote “tasting45” when booking to take
advantage of this offer. It’s open five days a
week, serving both lunch and dinner. If oysters
are your thing, you can even drop into ASKR
and indulge in a handful of oysters sitting at the
bar while you enjoy any of their delectable
wines, served by the glass or bottle. ASKR is
more than just a restaurant - it’s a destination
which should be at the top of your dining list
this autumnhttp://www.askr.co.uk