116 Orientalism and Empirebegan immediately after his removal from his mountain hideout of
Gunib. After descending from the mountains, Shamil for the “first
time became acquainted with the comforts of European life” in Temir-
Khan-Shura, in the home of Baron Wrangel.^37 “Europe” was present in
Dagestan in the form of Wrangel’s hospitality, the tablets for a stomach
ache he received from a local Russian doctor in Temir-Khan-Shura,
and the photograph collection of Count Nostigr in Gir-Iurt.^38 The fas-
cinated Shamil requested that copies of photographs of himself be sent
to his wives, who remained in Temir-Khan-Shura. Crowds of the curi-
ous gathered here and in Mozdok, where the imam spent 5 September
with the family of his Armenian wife, Shuanet, as they did in
Georgievsk and Ekaterinograd.^39
Stavropol, however, was to be “the first European city” that Shamil
had ever seen, as a Russian newspaper commentator put it, and
crowds of the curious assembled to witness his arrival. “As happens
with all powerful natures, Shamil carries himself extraordinarily well
and does not reveal his feelings,” the newspapers reported.^40 Shamil
calmly looked at “the buildings, and at our wonderful boulevard.”^41
Kazi-Magomet, however, was astonished. “And can it be that
Petersburg is still better than Stavropol?” he was reported to ask na-
ively.^42 The next day in Stavropol, Shamil was visited by a school di-
rector, who was accompanied by a mountaineer student from the
Stavropol gymnasium. They spoke in Kumyk without a translator,
but not for long, the observant Russians noted. Was Shamil put off by
the educated youth, who did not kiss his hand and recognize him as
his imam? The Russians of Stavropol exhibited for Shamil what they
assumed was most impressive: the Vorontsov Gardens, the theatre,
evening balls, a vaudeville.^43 The Stavropol Provincial News reported
his smile and curiosity when exposed to the vaudeville and his satis-
faction with the choirs that had been arranged for an 8 p.m. perfor-
mance in the Vorontsov Gardens. He spent less time at the ball,
however, apparently “surprised at the social freedoms of Russian so-
ciety” or, as it was reported in StPetersburg, “scandalized by the cus-
toms of the giaour [unbelievers].”^44
In Khar’kov, Shamil was introduced to a similar world, visiting the
university, the circus, a ball given by the Khar’kov provincial gover-
nor, and the home of a local notable on Ekarinoslav Street. Such a dis-
play was beginning to have its intended effect. Shamil supposedly
confessed his disappointment that he had waged war against Russia
for so many years. “I am sad,” he was reported to say, “that I did not
know Russia and did not earlier seek out its friendship.”^45 Again
amazed by Russian women and the social conventions of Russian
balls, this time Shamil was intrigued rather than deterred. At a ball