023 Cycle Touring Nepal

(Leana) #1

Royal beach camp – Kathmandu - 90km

I was informed of a 1500m climb ahead and, following a breakfast of
delicious pancakes, I proceeded toward Kathmandu. The best part of
the way was climbing up the mountainside (still next to the river), but
the most significant altitude gain came in a short ten-fifteen-
kilometre stretch. A zigzag path proceeded up the mountain, and
from afar one could see trucks snaking their way up the pass. I
switched to my smallest gear, put my head down and grinded my way
to the top. From the top of the pass a long descent proceeded into
Kathmandu. Unfortunately, the rain started bucketing down and I
reached central Kathmandu freezing and soaked to the bone.
Shivering, I booked into the first hotel as I wasn’t going to search for
the tourist suburb of Thamel in peak hour traffic and pouring rain.
That could wait until the following day.


By morning, I discovered my abode was indeed in Thamel and I only
moved to a cheaper place. Thamel has a lively tourist trade, with
heaps of accommodation, souvenir shops, and trekking/adventure
businesses lining the narrow alleys. I later ran into Ernest—the man
should have been a private detective, as he could track anyone down
in a matter of days. That night, Ernest and I visited places I
frequented in Kathmandu during my trekking expedition to
Annapurna three years earlier.

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