10 A short cycle ride led to the city to find accommodation, refresh anddo the usual things one needs in a new country, including drawing
Pakistani currency, and obtaining a SIM card.
In Quetta, these two simple tasks weren’t uncomplicated. Not merely
was Pakistan a seldom-visited country, but Quetta and Baluchistan
were well off most people’s travel lists. Pakistan wasn’t easy to visit,
and the lack of tourists made Quetta feel like the real deal.
Camel-drawn carts, congested alleys, milk tea, chapattis and
rickshaws surrounded by a mountain desert landscape helped give
the area an authentic feel. But unfortunately, it also made me stick
out like a sore thumb. When the ever-friendly Pakistanis heard I was
South African, they immediately launched into a passionate
discussion about cricket. Of course, one couldn’t blame them for
indulging in this sport, as political instability plagued the country and
cricket was their sole means of escape.
People were genuinely hospitable and eager to help. The country
might have been hot, dusty, windy and dangerous, but a friendly vibe
cloaked the entire region. Add to that excellent street food and
dramatic scenery, falling in love with Pakistan right from the word go
came as no surprise. I invested in a shalwar kameez which consisted
of big baggy pants and a long, long-sleeve shirt. Both men and
women wear the shalwar kameez, but the styles differ by gender.
As the day progressed, rumours revealed a problem with cycling to
Islamabad. The owner of my establishment mentioned one needed a
police escort for practically the entire 1000 kilometres. If the police
wanted to escort me, I couldn’t care as I considered sitting in a
vehicle at 15km/h at 40°C far more inconvenient than biking.