14 The route to Islamabad ran over the well-known Bolan Pass, adesolated mountain area frequently used by lawless invaders. The
pass was steep, and the train was pulled by two engines and pushed
by one at the rear. Consequently, the going was slow as the train
stopped at all stations where interesting snacks were peddled from
window to window. Eventually, I asked the conductor to be upgraded
to a sleeping compartment when one became available. After handing
over a few Pakistani rupees, I was led to an empty bunk where one
could lie down.
Islamabad
The entire day was spent on the train. There wasn’t much more to do
but stare out the window while being observed at close range.
Passengers came to look at me and I believed a burka was not such a
terrible idea, after all. Reaching the province of Punjab, the
countryside became a great deal greener. One could see wheat, rice,
cotton fields, and even the odd water buffalo.
The train arrived at our destination around 22h00 which turned out to
be Rawalpindi station, 20 kilometres south of Islamabad. Once the
bicycle and panniers were collected, searching for a place to sleep
was unsuccessful as hotels catered primarily to Pakistanis, not
foreigners. Hotel upon hotel, all had the same excuse. I subsequently
discovered the reason might not have been being a foreigner, but a
woman.
Being late and tired, I ditched the hotel idea. Instead, I took a taxi
ride to an international hotel in Islamabad. The place was a dump,
but it was already midnight, and a bed was a bed.