26 The porters were exceptionally superstitious and performed theirusual rituals and prayers even during a short trek to base camp. We’d
hardly started our hike, but this was where they traditionally took a
rest day and where a goat was slaughtered. Dancing continued until
late in the evening.
Paiya
Paiya was where we met Mark and Alex from the UK, who were also
trekking to base camp. They were a charming and easy-going couple.
I was glad to have company as walking alone could become
monotonous. The day was spent at leisure, a good thing, as all
seemed to suffer from upset stomachs. We walked together from
then on, and only one cooking tent was pitched in the evenings.
Paiyu – Khuburtze - 4000m asl
The following morning was an early start to prepare for the six-hour
climb up the Baltoro Glacier, stretching sixty-two kilometres up the
valley. It didn’t feel like walking along a glacier as rocks and stones
covered the area. Now and again, one could see deep crevices,
making the danger real. However, the ice made walking slippery, and
I was happy with my walking sticks. For the most part, the path was
a steady climb up the valley and onto our camp, which resembled a
real mountain camp with a few tents scattered amongst the rocks.
Chickens and goats brought up by porters were running about but
were steadily becoming less.
Sitting in the sun, drinking many cups of green tea, and looking out
over Paiyu Peak (6600 metres) and the Tango Towers (6239 metres)
filled me with gratitude and awe. I couldn’t believe I was there.