58 Chilas – Dasu – 117 km Between Chilas and Dasu, our route entered the Indus Kohistan
district. In this immensely conservative area, no women were seen
outside. Here the gorge was deep and narrow with cliffs along one
side and sheer drop-offs down to the river. The place reminded me of
Ethiopia, both in the scenery and stone-throwing children. Considered
a slightly lawless region, camping in the wild wasn’t recommended
and best to opt for accommodation. However, almost 15 kilometres
before Dasu, a rest house with an idyllic setting lured us in. When the
manager offered us a room at 50% discount, staying the night
became a no-brainer.
Dasu – Pattan – 53 km
The plan was to bike to Besham, but after 50 kilometres and more
delays by Ernest having another flat tyre, we overnighted in Pattan.
Ernest had, by then, used all his spare tubes as well as mine, leaving
us in desperate need of both patches and tubes.
The day's ride was picturesque. The route climbed high up along the
canyon wall. The landscape was genuinely spectacular with more
greenery than further north. The Indus River flowed far below as the
path zig-zagged up the mountain along a road washed away or
damaged by rock falls.