- chapter 42: The world of Etruscan textiles –
Before weaving could begin, however, the warp had to be prepared separately from the
loom and then attached to the cloth beam. This was accomplished by making a starting
border or heading band, the weft of which becomes the warp of the loom. This band could
be made on a special band loom in order to measure out and organize the warp threads.
The only likely representation of such a device is seen on the Bologna tintinnabulum (Fig.
42.2). Another method was tablet weaving.
Tablet weaving involves passing threads through holes in the corners of (usually)
square tablets (sometimes called cards), which, when rotated forward or back, force the
threads to form different sheds (Fig. 42.7). By rotating cards in different combinations,
it is possible to achieve numerous patterns. This method is suitable for weaving narrow
bands, such as belts, heading bands for the warp of a warp-weighted loom, or decorative
borders for the base textile. Tablet weaving in Etruria is attested not only by the presence
of such borders on textiles but also by the fi nds of tablets, metal clasps, bone spacers
with pegs and, particularly, by terracotta spools (rocchetti) (Fig. 42.8).^22 The latter were
probably used as weights in tablet weaving.
FINISHINGAfter the textile had been taken off the loom, it had to be fi nished. Linen cloth could
be subjected to various rough treatments to make it softer or it could be rubbed with
a special stone or glass piece to give it extra luster. Linen could also be bleached in the
sun. Wool cloth could be subjected to fulling, a treatment with water and, sometimes,
soap that produces a very tight fabric. The surface of a wool fabric could also be raised to
produce a nap. Another fi nishing process for both linen and wool textiles was pleating, as
demonstrated by representations of Etruscan garments in art, which depict regular and
often elaborate pleating of certain garments, particularly mantles, as for example in the
case of the Apollo of Veii. Some of the textiles found at Verucchio provide the fi rst hard
evidence of such practice.^23
Figure 42.7 Tablet weaving. Courtesy of Lise Ræder Knudsen.