The Science of Spice

104 Spice Profiles

The biryani is a true melting pot of a dish.

Conceived in Persia, it was introduced to India by

Arab merchants, and became popular in almost

every region. Seven-spice, Lebanon’s answer to

garam masala, gives this version a rich, smoky,

Middle Eastern flavour. For less of a chilli kick,

simply halve the amount of chilli flakes.

CHICKEN AND

AUBERGINE BIRYANI

WITH SEVEN-SPICE

1

Make the seven-spice by grinding the whole spices and mixing

with the remaining spices. Reserve 1 tablespoon and store the rest.

2

Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F/Gas 3). In a large, ovenproof

pan, melt about 25g (1oz) of the butter and gently sauté the

chicken thighs with the cloves, star anise, and peppercorns. When

the chicken starts to turn opaque, cover with boiling water and bring

to a simmer. Cook in the oven with the pan lid on for about an hour,

until the meat is tender. Take out the chicken and set aside.

3

Remove the spices from the liquid, then add boiling water to

fill the pan. Add the rice and a good pinch of salt. Boil for 7–8

minutes, until the rice starts to soften. While the rice is cooking,

shred the chicken, then line a large, heavy-based saucepan with

baking paper. Drain the rice and rinse under the cold tap.

4

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a frying pan and fry the garlic for

less than a minute over a medium heat. Then add the ginger,

chilli flakes, 1 tablespoon of seven-spice, and a good pinch of sea salt.

Add the chicken, followed by a little more oil and the diced

aubergines. Stir fry for about 5 minutes, until the chicken and

aubergine are coated in oil and spices. Season with salt and pepper.

5

Melt the remaining butter with a little oil, then pour into the

paper-lined saucepan. Sprinkle with sea salt and add a thin layer

of rice, then a layer of chicken and aubergine mix. Repeat, alternating

the layers and finishing with rice. Poke a few holes in the mixture

with a wooden-spoon handle, to allow steam to rise through the dish.

6

Wrap the pan lid in a tea towel and put it on the pan. Cook over

the lowest heat possible for 35–45 minutes. With 15 minutes to

go, add the peas to the pan. At the end of cooking, use a fork to check

that the bottom layer of rice has formed a crust. If it has not, raise the

heat and cook for up to 5 more minutes.

7

To serve, flip the biryani onto a dish, so that the golden, crispy rice

base – known in Persian as the tahdig – is on top. For a crispier crust,

omit the paper, but that ensure the rice does not burn while cooking.

Serves 4–6

Prep time 30 mins

Cooking time 1 hour

40–50 mins

For the seven-spice

1 tbsp black peppercorns

1 tbsp allspice berries

1 tsp cloves

1 tsp coriander seeds

1 tbsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp ground ginger

1 tsp grated nutmeg

For the biryani

75g (2½oz) butter

4 skinless, boneless chicken thighs

4 cloves

1 star anise

8 black peppercorns

250g (9oz) basmati rice

4–5 tbsp vegetable oil

6–8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

sea salt flakes and freshly ground

black pepper

7cm (3in) piece fresh root ginger,

finely grated

1 tbsp seven-spice (see above)

1 tsp chilli flakes

2 aubergines, cut into 1cm (½in) cubes

100g (3½oz) frozen petits pois

SPICE

IDEAS

Experiment with your

own seven-spice mix:

replace sweet spices

with cumin and/or

nigella for earthiness,

or fenugreek for musty,

bittersweet notes.

Highlight eucalyptus-

like cineole found

in several of the dry

spices by swapping

fresh ginger for

cineole-rich galangal.

Preserve more of the

pungent gingerols and

zingiberene by adding

fresh ginger later

• at the same time as
  the peas – for a zestier
  hit of flavour.

104-105_Recipe_Biryani.indd 104 04/06/2018 15:47