The Science of Spice

(Jacob Rumans) #1

Flavour Group | SULPHUROUS COMPOUNDS | Mustard 179


BLENDING SCIENCE


Mustard’s heat is produced by sulphur-containing isothiocyanates, which, unlike other pungent compounds,
vaporize at body temperature to have a nose-filling pungency. The complex flavour profile also includes
pine-like pinene, ground-coffee-like furanmethanethiol, malty, peachy 3-methylbutanal, and popcorn-like
2-acetyl-1-pyrroline. Nutty, roasted pyrazine flavours are produced by toasting the seeds.

Parsnips Add a spoonful of wholegrain mustard
to a creamy parsnip bake.

Haricot beans Combine English mustard powder
with molasses and add to a haricot bean casserole.

Rabbit Add a spoonful of mustard to braised
rabbit with tarragon.

Fish Fry brown mustard seeds in ghee with
other warming spices, adding tomatoes and onion
to make a sauce for fried or steamed fish.

Cheese Sprinkle mustard seeds over strips
of puff pastry with grated strong cheese to make
cheese straws.

Kitchen


creativity


White mustard seeds have a mild taste and are used in pickling and to make
American yellow mustard. Brown mustard seeds are much hotter, often featuring
in Indian cuisine. Black seeds have a fine aroma but are less common.

Damage mustard seeds to release
the myrosinase enzyme by crushing
or cooking them.

Soak cracked mustard seeds in water
for several minutes before cooking to
allow the myrosinase enzyme to work and
so obtain maximum flavour and heat.

Create a rich variety of nutty and roasted
pyrazine flavour compounds by toasting
the seeds before use.

RELEASE THE FLAVOUR


Whole seeds are bland: the hot spicy
isothiocyanates are only formed when a
defensive enzyme called myrosinase
breaks out of damaged cells to act on
specific molecules – sinalbin in white
mustard, stronger singrin in black and
brown. However, myrosinase only
functions when water is present.

BLENDS TO TRY


Try these recipes for classic
blends featuring mustard, or
why not adapt them with some
blending science?
Panch phoran p43
Vindaloo paste p44

FOOD PARTNERS


MUSTARD


Mu


combine with other
pinene-containing
spices for more
woodiness:
cumin has pine
and slightly bitter
earthiness with some
peppery aroma

bay brings fresh,
slightly medicinal
herbiness to the mix

combine with other
hot, penetrating
spices for rounded
pungency:
chilli adds varying
degrees of heat from
capsaicinoids
garlic brings
pungency from allicin,
with sweet citrus
ginger delivers
zesty pungency,
adding earthy and
floral citrus notes

black pepper
brings woody warmth

pair with spices
that complement
the roasted, nutty
flavours:
nigella adds
earthy, woody flavours
with notes of oregano
and charred onion

sesame seeds
contribute harmonizing
nutty flavours when
roasted

add deep, complex
flavour spices:
cacao and mustard
seed complement
each other remarkably
well, in both sweet
and savoury dishes

PINENE


woody | pine |
herbal

PYRAZINES


nutty | roasted |
sweet

VARIOUS


COMPOUNDS


coffee | peach |
chocolate

ISOTHIOCYANATES


hot | peppery |
penetrating

178-179_Mustard.indd 179 13/06/2018 16:24

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