National Geographic Traveller UK 03.2020

TOMISLAV RASHKOV’S

after-dark spots

BAR PETAK

The name of this bar means

‘Friday’ as no matter what day of

the week you go, it always feels

like Friday here. Almost every

local has a story about this place.

barfriday.bg

HAMBARA

To enter Hambara — the oldest

underground bar in Sofi a — you

have fi nd the venue in a very

small, dark street, then knock on

the door and wait for someone

to let you in. Everything is lit

entirely by candles, and there’s a

piano, too. Ul. 6-ti septemvri 22

K.E.B.A

Most of the regulars are artists,

actors, painters, musicians and

fi lmmakers — unsurprising given

that it’s right next to the National

Academy for Theatre and Film

Arts. They play interesting,

alternative music, serve great

drinks and there’s a very friendly

atmosphere for a great evening

out. facebook.com/KEBAsofi

EXE CLUB

This place attracts a lot of

upcoming DJs, has a very slick

design and plays all the best

tracks you won’t hear anywhere

else. It’s frequented by people

who really like to have fun.

execlub.bg

SPUTNIK

This is the best bar for fi rst-

class cocktails in Sofi a. It looks

amazing, but the biggest

highlight is the bartenders

— simply tell them your mood

and favourite ingredients and

they’ll make you the perfect

drink. sputnikcocktailbar.com

Tomislav is vice president of

365 Association, a non-profi t

association with a focus on

tourism and culture. One of

its initiatives is the Free Sofi a

walking tour. freesofi atour.com

Show time

Be sure to catch a performance at the IVAN

VAZOV NATIONAL THEATRE, one of the most

important landmarks in Sofi a, located by the

beautiful City Garden. Productions at the

main theatre range from Shakespeare and

modern plays to ballet. Performances are

mostly in Bulgarian, but there are occasional

English-language nights. nationaltheatre.bg

THE NATIONAL PALACE OF CULTURE,

meanwhile, is a huge Communist-era

exhibition space that opened in 1981 to mark

1,300 years since the founding of Bulgaria.

It’s a monumental hexagonal monolith of

concrete, glass and steel that hosts concerts,

dance performances, fi lms and plays. If

the weather’s pleasant, join skateboarders,

families and picnickers in the popular park

that surrounds it. ndk.bg

If you’re looking for a shot of high culture,

tickets for the SOFIA OPERA AND BALLET are

very reasonable, and there are a variety of

productions from famous operas to musicals

and special productions for children.

While plenty of opera-goers do dress up,

and the website states that ‘formal attire

is recommended’, in reality there’s a very

wide range of attendees wearing everything

from jeans to suits. It’s also a lovely, grand

building to admire, and the productions are

fi rst-rate. operasofi a.bg

The BULGARIAN ARMY THEATRE was built

in 1936, and once housed the opulent Royal

Cinema. It’s more about the stage than the

screen these days, with a main hall and a

studio theatre, staging modern versions

of classics as well as contemporary drama.

Performers are o‰ en well-known Bulgarian

fi lm and television actors. tba.art.bg

If your Bulgarian’s not quite up to scratch,

however, head to SOFIA THEATRE, where

English subtitles have been introduced

for much of the repertoire (check the

website for details of the subtitled shows).

The theatre’s varied oŽ ering is accessible

and contemporary, with around 10-12

productions a year in its four spaces.

sofi atheatre.eu JO FLETCHERCROSS

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral;

cafe culture on Oborishte

Street; National Palace of

Culture; Sex and the City

exhibition at the Institute of

Contemporary Art

IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ALAMY; KALIN SERAPIONOV

March 2020 31

SMART TRAVELLER