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STAY AT HOME
With its wild moorlands and endless
skies, this corner of South West England
is perfect for a gloriously rural getawayWhy go
Straddling Somerset and Devon,
Exmoor is a national park of
formidable drama, with steep-sided
valleys and russet-hued moorland
punctuated by solitary trees that
have been twisted and contorted
by the wind. A red deer, sporting a
crown of antlers, may emerge from
the mist; a brooding raven may lap
moodily by. Above all, Exmoor feels
like a real country escape, shaped by
thousands of years of farming and
inhabited by people who have lived
and worked here all their lives. Blessed
with a network of footpaths, ancient
bridleways and lanes, it’s easy to
explore and combines wilderness with
indulgent treats — plus the chance to
temporarily leave a busy life behind.
visitexmoor.comWhat to do
Teetering on the north coast of
Exmoor, seemingly poised to tumble
into the sea, is a serrated frontier of
boulders and peaks known as Valley
of Rocks. Amble along the Victorian
path that straddles their seaward
faces or, for a more adventurous
undertaking, scramble up the rocks
that rise abruptly above the lush green
landscape. Look out for the feral goats
that nimbly pick their way along the
steepest slopes.We like
Board the Clif Railway, which
connects the twin towns of Lynton
and Lynmouth. This working heritage
railway dates back to 1888 and is one of
just three fully water-powered railways
let in the world. Two cars with water-
operated brakes wheeze and groan
their way up and down a dizzying clif
facet. clifrailwaylynton.co.ukDon’t miss
Reaching 1,705t, Dunkery Beacon is
the highest point on Exmoor — and on
a clear day, it feels as though you can
see all of South West England from
its broad summit. While you can, of
course, explore in solitude, local guide
Jennie Wild is excellent company and
ofers a walking safari with sundowners
on the summit. wildaboutexmoor.comWhere to stay
There are just eight rooms at the
Dunkery Beacon Country House, all
of which are beautifully furnished.
Set in a valley to the north of Dunkery
Beacon, this small hotel has an
intriguing history as a Cold War
bolthole for British spies. A glass of red
wine here, enjoyed in the cosy guest
lounge, is the perfect end to a romp
on the moors. From £89 a night, B&B.
dunkerybeaconaccommodation.co.uk
MARK ROWEWHERE TO EAT
Visit the medieval village
of Dunster for a clutch of
cafes and tea rooms. Try
homemade cakes at Tessa’s
Tea Shop or, for a light lunch
and excellent homemade
scones, head to Chapel House.
theoldehousedunster.co.ukIMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY chapelhousedunster.co.uk
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