IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; GETTY
FROM LEFT: Small island in
Hardangerfjord, near Bergen;
dining al fresco on Bryggen’s
main promenadeMORNING
Make a beeline for Bryggen, the
city’s historic harbour district and
UNESCO World Heritage Site, for a
glimpse of how Bergen operated in
the Middle Ages. The harbourfront
— lined with gabled houses
painted shades of red, amber and
ochre — is an image that’s
synonymous with the city.
Bryggen’s warren of shops,
restaurants and artist studios
is housed in 62 historic buildings
that once served as a base for
mercantile superpower the
Hanseatic League. In recent years,
the area, along with the nearby
village of Balestrand, has served as
the inspiration for the magical
kingdom of Arendelle in Disney’s
Frozen movies. If a pastry pit stop is
required, try Baker Brun on the
harbourfront for kanelbullar
(cinnamon rolls) as big as your face.AFTERNOON
Bergen’s creative culinary scene is
testament to the global inluences
that arrived via its harbours.
Stop by the fresco-clad former
stock exchange, Matborsen,
which now houses a selection of
interesting restaurants, including
Bare Vestland; it specialises
in small plates, but if you only
order one thing for lunch, make
it the plukkfisk — haddock,
potatoes and onions cooked in
a bechamel sauce (comfort food
at its inest and most illing).
You’ll need the sustenance, as the
aternoon should be dedicated
to discovering Fløyen, one of the
city’s most popular peaks. The
Fløibanen funicular sweeps you up
to the top in a matter of minutes;
forested paths snake back down
to the city — ideal for those
looking to hike.EVENING
Dive back into Bryggen for
a dose of history at Bergen’s
oldest restaurant, Bryggen
Tracteursted, a place where
Norwegian and Hanseatic
traditions collide. It’s been
in operation since 1708 and,
accordingly, has plenty of
stories — its stone loor, for
example, meant it was the only
room in the wooden medieval
quarter allowed have a ire. On
the menu, you’ll ind traditional
delicacies such as cod tongue,
fermented trout and reindeer
tartare served with a twist as
bite-size Norwegian tapas. More
conventional oferings are also
on ofer, such as spiced herring
and stews. Aterwards, stop by
Dyvekes wine bar for a nightcap in
its 12th-century cellar to round of
your historical escapade.DAY ONE DINING & DOCKS
BERGEN’S BEST
Island tripsFOR HIKES: ASKØY
Get a glimpse of yet another
side of Bergen from Askøy.
Less than half an hour’s
boat ride from the city’s
harbour, the island is ripe
for exploration. Hiking
trails take visitors up to the
island’s highest point, where
views of the Byfjord and
the surrounding islands
of Sotra and Øygarden
complement the views
of the city opposite.FOR FOOD: HOLMEN
Head to the island of Holmen
on a culinary pilgrimage
to check out Cornelius
Sjømatrestaurant, something
of an institution in Bergen. A
25-minute boat ride whisks
you from the city to the island
for a meal accompanied
by views of the fjords and
mountains beyond. The
Meteorological Menu is
inspired by the elements
and what the local ishermen
pull up in their nets.
corneliusrestaurant.noFOR A BIG DAY OUT:
SOLUND
From Bergen, you can
take a day trip out to the
westernmost islands of
Norway on the city’s postal
boat. Six bridges and a
three-mile road connect the
islands of Solund, Bulandet
and Værlandet and their
rocky islets. Journeying on
the boat is a great way to
get to know the locals.
gofjords.comMarch 2020 45