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Using retinol is a little like learning how to drive a stick shift: There are a lot of fits and starts, and it can be incredibly irritating.
But once you get it, you never want to give it up. Now brands are introducing retinol alternatives—natural oils from plants rich
in vitamin A—with less potential for flaking. But do they work? “No. I wish,” says New York City dermatologist Dendy Engelman.
Vitamin A derivatives, such as beta carotene, rose hip oil, and carrot oil, “feel good and have antioxidant effects, but as far as all
of the benefits that we see from retinol—skin-cell turnover that promotes collagen-building and softening of fine lines—they
don’t compare.” For those with seriously sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema, or for those who don’t want to deal with retinol
acclimation, these alternatives can help smooth skin by hydrating it. Josie Maran Argan Beta-Retinoid Pink Algae Serum combines
a vitamin A derived from pink algae with argan oil to moisturize. And there is one retinol-comparable ingredient on the market:
“Bakuchiol, a plant extract, has been proven to have benefits that are in the same realm as retinol,” says Engelman. “It’s not quite
as effective, but it does activate a lot of the genes that retinol does.” Try Herbivore Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing
Serum. If you want those big results, though, keep going with real-deal retinol, even when the going gets tough. Think of it as
grinding the gears a bit before you get to enjoy a smooth (and clear and glowy) ride. —COTTON CODINHA
course of nature
22 ALLURE APRIL 2020
FERNANDO GOM
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