22 TASTE MARCH 2020SALT AND PEPPERWhite peppercornsBlack peppercornsGreen peppercornsGround black pepperMixed peppercornsWildVoatsiperifery
peppercornsSzechuan peppercorns
Pink peppercornsTHEDAILYGRIND
Unlikesalt,a mineraland
nutrient,pepperisa spicethat
doesn’tbelongineverydish.
Ruleofthumb:followtherecipe,
whichmaybeledbytradition
andgeography(Italiancacio
e pepe,forexample)BLACK,GREENAND
WHITEPEPPERCORNS
Themostwidelytraded
spiceintheworld
originallycomesfrom
KeralainsouthIndia.
Blackpeppercornsare
thecooked,driedunripe
fruitofthepepperplant,
greenpeppercornsarethe
dried,unripefruitofthe
samefloweringvine,while
whitepeppercomesfrom
theripeseeds.Always
grindwholepeppercorns
justbeforeserving
food(saladorsteak,for
example).Oraddwholeto
sauces,marinades,soups
andstocksatthestartof
thecookingprocessto
addgentleflavour.PINKPEPPERCORNS
Thesedriedberriesof
thePeruvianpepperand
Brazilianpeppertrees
havea sweet-peppery
flavourthatworkswellin
picklingliquids,flavoured
butters,asa garnishfor
a ginandtonic,orwith
darkchocolate.SZECHUAN
PEPPERCORNS
ProducedinChina’s
Szechaunprovince,
thesearen’taspungent
asblackpepperandhave
hintsoflemon.Addto
Asianstir-friesorChinese-
inspiredbrothsfor
noodlesordumplings.