TABLE TALKPHOTOGRAPHGETTYIMAGES.COMTEXTMICHELLE COBURNEXTRA SOURCESTHE GUARDIAN; VINEPAIR.COM; WINEFOLLY.COM40 TASTE MARCH 20201
Bouquet
“Tropicalaromas,whiffsofgreen
pepperandfynboswithflintinessandan
attractiveminerality,complementedby
gooseberrytonesanda crispfinish.”
Cueextensiveeye-rolling.We’veall
heardsimilardescriptionsattastingrooms
anddinnerpartiesandwonderedexactly
whatthosepeopleweredrinking.It’sjust
a simplematterofwineintheglass,grape
onthenose,alcoholonthepalate,right?
Wrong.Andpleasehearusout– the
morewineyoudrink,themoreyouwill
starttodetectfamiliararomasandflavours- vanilla,tropicalfruit,blackberries.And
that’snotbecausewinemakersaresecretly
addingtheingredientstotheirbarrelsor
bottles.Everythingfromthecomposition
ofthesoilinwhichthevinesgrow,tothe
pollenfromplantsgrowingaroundthe
vineyard– eventhesaltysprayofseawater
atcoastalfarms– canbeabsorbedbythe
grapesandsubtlyinfluencetheirflavour.
Inthecellar,thewinemaker’sdecisions–
fermentingthejuiceinoakbarrelsorsteel
tanks,forexample – will also affect the
finalproduct.
Winescientistsattributethe
herbaceousnessofSauvignonBlancto
chemicalscalledmethoxypyrazines(try
pronouncingthataftera fewglasses!).The
floralaromasofGewürztraminercome
fromalcoholcompoundsthatarealso
usedinperfumes,andthecitrusnotes
ofChardonnayarelinkedtocompounds
foundingrapefruitjuice.Sonoticinggrassy,
jasmineorcitrusyaromasandflavoursin
yourwineisn’tallthat far-fetched after all.
2
Body
If youhavenoideawhethera wine
is light,mediumorfull-bodied,pay
attentiontohowit feelsinyourmouth
and when you swallow: light-bodied(likeskimmilk),medium-bodied(similar
to2%milk),ora lotmoreviscousandfull-
bodied(likefull-creammilk)?Thealcohol
contentofthewineplaysa significantrole
here,soa low-alcoholRieslingorProsecco
canusuallybecalledlight-bodied,
a PinotNoirorCabernetFrancis likely
tobemedium-bodied,anda Merlot
orChardonnaywillfeelheavier, or more
full-bodied, in your mouth.3
Oak
Winemakersagetheirwinesin
oakbarrelstoimpartcolour(thelonger
a wineis oakedfor,thedarkerit becomes)
andflavour(thevanillincompoundin
thewoodtasteslike,youguessedit,
vanilla,whichis oftena characteristicof
Chardonnay).Theartinvolvedinoaking
a wineliesinjudginghowlongtoleave
it forbeforebottling– toomuchoaking
overwhelmsthefruitinessofthewine
withwoodyflavour,muchlikea dish
that’sbeenover-seasoned.4
Acidity
Thissournessis whatdistinguishes
a flatwinefromonethatbringsyourtaste
budsalive– inmuchthesamewayas
a glassoffresh,zingycitrusjuicedoes.
Aciditybringsalltheflavoursofthewine
togetherandmakesit crispandrefreshing,
enticingyoutopouranotherglass.When
pairingwineandfoodbearinmindthat
acidityis balancedbysalt,sweetandfat,
which is why a Blanc de Blanc sparklingWINE-TASTING 101
Learn to
speak wine
If youwanttostopwingingit andsoundlikeyouknowwhat you’re
drinking, these are the basic terms you need to knowwinegoesreallywellwitha young
Camembert,orevenFrench fries.5
Terroir
ThisFrenchwordreferstothe
senseofplacecreatedbya combination
ofthesoilinwhichthevinesgrowand
theuniqueclimateandenvironmentof
thevineyard.GrapesfromElgingrowand
ripenunderdifferentconditionstothose
inStellenboschorthevineyardsofthe
WestCoast,andthewinestheybecome
showcasethesedifferences.6
OldWorld/
New World
OldWorldwinesaremadeincountries
consideredthebirthplaceofwine,
includingFrance,Spain,Germany,Hungary,
Greece,IsraelandGeorgia,wheretheyare
madeaccordingtoage-oldtraditionsand
strictguidelines.Thesewinesareusually
gentlerandlowerinalcohol.NewWorld
winescomefromcountriesincludingChile,
theUnitedStates,AustraliaandSouth
Africa,wheretheclimateis warmerand
winemakersaregenerallylessrestrained
intheirwinemaking.NewWorldwines
tendtobemorefruitforward, full-bodied
andhigherinalcohol.7
Tannins
Thesearewhatcausesthedrying
sensationinyourmouthwhenyou
drinkwine,especiallyredssuchas
CabernetSauvignon.Tanninscome
fromcompoundsfoundingrapeseeds,
stemsandskins– thelongertheseare
lefttosoakinthegrapejuiceafter
pressing(toaddcolourandcomplexity),
thehigherthetanniccontentofthe
wineandthedrieryourmouthwillbe.
Tanninsarealsoantioxidants,sothe
higherthetannins,themoreyoucanage
thewine(seepage 42 forAllanMullins’
recommendedwinesforageing).8
Cool/warm
climate
Grapesgrownincool-climateregions
usuallyproducelighterbodiedwines,
whilewarm-climatewinesaregenerally
morefull-bodied.TheCederberg,Hemel
enAardeandCapeAgulhasarecool-
climatewine-producingareas,while
FranschhoekandtheSwartland produce
warm-climate wines.“Methoxpyrazines
(trypronouncing
thataftera few
glasses!)”