The Wall Street Journal - 21.03.2020 - 22.03.2020

(Joyce) #1

THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. **** Saturday/Sunday, March 21 - 22, 2020 |D3


STYLE & FASHION


describe the class of particularly
slender 1990s supermodels who
helped popularize the dress. Think
of Kate Moss who, in addition to
wearing a see-through slip to a
party in 1993, marched down the
runways of Marc Jacobs for Perry
Ellis, Prada and Calvin Klein in simi-
larly unsubstantial dresses.
But you know who else isn’t a
waif? Actress Drew Barrymore. Dur-
ing her ’90s tenure as Hollywood’s
pixieish wild child, she pledged de-
votion to the slip dress. Ms. Barry-
more wore long ones on the red car-
pet, accessorized with body glitter
and a daisy in her hair; she chan-
neled the decade’s faux-naiveté by

layering short ones over baby tees;
and she embraced the grunge look
on-screen in 1995’s “Mad Love,”
pairing black boots with a floor-
length slip similar to the one above.
According to New York stylist
Camilla Nickerson, ’90s designers
recognized that the minimalist
dress was resonating with attitudi-
nal youths. Like much of the de-
cade’s fashion, its pared-back purity
offered reprieve from the audacious
extravagance of the ’80s. “It was
the uniform of many,” Ms. Nicker-
son said. “It came to define a cer-
tain mood...the slip dress was a part
of [an] unadorned new beauty.”
Counterintuitively, the flimsy

I


WASTEDmy 20s being ter-
rified of slip dresses. Tradi-
tionally a sheath of vapor-
thin silk held up by two
teeny straps, the slip dress,
to my mind, seemed too scandal-
ously scant to wear outside the bed-
room, let alone to a restaurant or
the office. I admired women confi-
dent enough to venture out in
what’s barely a second skin, but I
gravitate toward protective, sculp-
tural clothing and feared a slip dress
would leave me exposed. What’s
more, I am by no stretch of the
imagination a waif—a term used to

BYKATHARINEK.ZARRELLA

Give Yourself the Slip


Drew Barrymore’s barely-there, minimal 1990s dress has its comeback


STRAP CLUB
Drew Barrymore
photographed in a
white satin slip dress in
1994, the year she
starred in the updated
Western ‘Bad Girls.’

COPYCAT


GETTY IMAGES (BARRYMORE); F. MARTIN RAMIN/THE WALL STREET JOURNAL, STYLING BY ANNE CARDENAS (CLOTHING)


The Over/Under
One of a slip dress’s virtues is
its supreme layerability. Here,
three ways to augment it—
from easy to dressy.

For a Skype-
based client
meeting
Slip Dress,
$545,
nililotan.com;
Blouse,
$1,075, Stella
McCartney,
saksfifth
avenue.com

For a special
dinner at
home
Slip Dress,
$3,500,
gabrielahearst.
com;Blazer,
$520, sandro-
paris.com

For a first
Tinder date
on a summer
evening
Slip Dress,
$725, R13,
r13.com;
T-shirt, $30,
Babaton,
aritzia.com

dress flatters most body types,
particularly when it’s cut on the
bias, meaning the fabric is cut at
an angle. I didn’t realize this until
I finally tried on my first slip at
age 30. In unguessable ways, the
gown-length black column sup-
ported me in all the right places.
In the years since, I’ve worn it
with heels to black-tie holiday
fêtes, with combat boots and a
leather jacket to grab lunch and
barefoot on the beach.
The dress’s accommodating fit
and versatility, plus the fashion in-
dustry’s relentless infatuation with
the 1990s, could account for its
ubiquity in the current spring col-
lections. R13 proposed a grunge-
tinged floral version, and Jil Sander
showed a fluid, wide-strapped take.
New York-based stylist Lilli Mill-
hiser said that these days, the slip
dress is a closet staple—“like a

good pair of jeans.” Liane Wiggins,
head of womenswear at British on-
line luxury retailer Matchesfashion,
agreed. On the Matches website,
shoppers can choose from nearly
200 slip dresses, from the minimal
and affordable to the elaborate and
extravagant. Ms. Wiggins observed
that her customers gravitate toward
more intricate variations, like Ga-
briela Hearst’s lace and pintuck-
pleated leather style for spring.
But a simple slip can serve you
well, as New York-based designer
Nili Lotan attests. Since she intro-
duced it in the late 2000s, her
sumptuously spare silk cami dress,
which comes in a multitude of colors
and two lengths, has been a collec-
tion mainstay and celebrity favorite.
“Clean, timeless, effortless and age-
less,” is how she described the de-
sign, which she recommended pair-
ing with a silk jacket for a late-
spring wedding, an oversize knit for
a #stayhome weekend or a hooded
sweatshirt for venturing into public.
Ms. Wiggins advised buying
your first slip in a neutral hue like
navy, black, champagne or ivory.
She favors natural fibers, rather
than synthetic blends—“they feel
more luxurious and look more flat-
tering”—and notes that a high-
quality design can carry you from
spring through winter. “Layer it
over a turtleneck, a pop-color knit
or...wear it with a gorgeous silk
shirt underneath,” she said, adding
that your base layer should hug
the body to avoid any unsightly,
lumpy lines. Oh, and another
thing: “We’re seeing women wear
it underneath a blazer for work—I
think it’s totally appropriate.”
On the hanger, it might look like
precious, indolent lingerie, but the
slip dress is a wardrobe workhorse.
Dress it up or down, pile on the lay-
ers or—my personal preference—
embrace some ’90s nostalgia and
wear it bare like Ms. Barrymore. As
Ms. Lotan put it, “It’s almost like
wearing nothing.” Only better.

It may resemble lingerie,
but the slip dress is a
wardrobe workhorse.
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