Eastern and Central Europe (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

(Ben Green) #1

634 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE


Shopping & Entertainment


Bulgaria has a wealth of shops, malls, open-air markets
and stalls selling everything from Bulgarian-made soaps
to rakiya (fruit brandy). In every town centre there is a
market, its stalls stacked with fruit, vegetables and
flowers, and street kiosks with meticulously arranged
trays of dried fruit, nuts and sweets. The country’s
classical music, ballet and theatre season runs from the
begin ning of October to the end of June, when orches-
tras, opera and ballet companies perform at venues in
Sofia and other major towns, and theatre companies
stage productions of classical and contem porary plays.
Bulgaria’s summer folk festivals also provide an oppor-
tunity to see the country’s vigorous folk culture.


MARKETS


Every town in the country
has an open-air market, where
fresh fruit and vegeta bles and
a great variety of Bulgarian
cheeses and sausages are sold.
Several of Bulgaria’s most
picturesque outdoor markets
sell not only fresh produce,
clothing and household goods
but also handicrafts. The
liveliest of these are the
daily Zhenski Pazar in Sofia,
the daily market in Varna and
the Sunday morning market
in Bansko.
The daily Bric-à-Brac Market
in front of the Aleksandûr
Nevski Memorial Church in
Sofia is the best place for
antiques, old postcards,
and Communist-era medals
and militaria.


OPENING HOURS


In major towns, cities and
holiday resorts, shops open
from 10am to 8pm from
Monday to Saturday, and
often later during the summer
season. In Sofia and towns
along the Black Sea coast,
shops also open on Sundays,
closing at various times
between 2 and 6pm.


HANDICRAFTS


High-quality craft items are
abundant at Bulgaria’s souve-
nir stalls, with ceramics,
embroidery and traditional
text iles among the most pop-
ular tourist buys. Pottery from
the central Bulgarian town of
Troyan, decorated with flow-
ing patterns in bright colours,
is a favourite Bulgarian


souvenir, and is available
through out the country.
Traditional Bulgarian textiles
include vividly pat terned
kilims (carpets) hand-woven
on vertical looms by the
women folk in highland
villages. Other high land crafts
include guberi (fleecy rugs),
and kozyatsi (tufted goat-hair
rugs). Brightly coloured
blouses, delicately embroi-
dered with folk motifs, are
usually also of high quality.
Bulgaria is a major producer
of attar of roses, an essential
oil extracted from the damask
rose, which is used all over the
world in per fumes and beauty
products. Locally made soaps,
skin creams and eau de
cologne made from Bulgarian
attar are available from
pharma cies and supermarkets
throughout the country. Other
items to look out for include
traditional copper pots and
coffee sets, and hand-painted
copies of Orthodox icons.
Souvenirs can be found in
market stalls and small shops
in tour ist resorts across the
country. Specialist outlets sell-
ing fine handi crafts include the
Ethnographic Museum Shop in
Sofia. Shops in Veliko Tûrnovo
are also good places to pick
up good-quality items made
by local crafts workshops.

MUSIC, THEATRE
AND DANCE

Bulgaria has a fine tradition
of classical music and tickets
for concerts are very reason-
ably priced. The Bulgarian
Philharmonic Orchestra,
which performs weekly at the
Bulgaria Concert Hall in Sofia,
is the country’s most presti-
gious orchestra. Plovdiv,
Varna and Burgas also have
good symphony orchestras.
Many of Bulgaria’s best
ensembles and soloists
perform at Varna Summer
International Festival in July.
Local bands playing rock
and jazz standards are a fre-
quent feature of bars and
clubs in the cities and holiday
resorts. Rock and pop stars
perform at the National Palace
of Culture in Sofia.
International jazz musicians

FOOD, WINE AND RAKIYA

The most famous Bulgarian
speciality is yogurt, consi-
dered very healthy due to a
rare bacteria found only in
Bulgaria. Sirene (salty white
cheese) and kashkaval (cheese
made from cow’s milk) are
also some good buys available

in most supermarkets. Most
food shops also carry a wide
selection of Bulgarian wines.
While Bulgarian Merlot and
Cabernet Sauvignon are on a
par with red wines from else-
where in Europe, domes tic
varieties, such as Melnik from
the southwest, have a much
more distinctive charac ter.
The highest quality wines are
those pro duced by lead ing
wineries such as Todoroff and
Damyanitza. These are avail-
able in stores throughout the
country. Bottles of rakiya
(grape or plum brandy) make
very good gifts. Bottles marked
otlezhala (matured) are likely
to be of superior quality.

NIGHTLIFE

Central Sofia is packed with
clubs and bars, many of which
have designer interiors and
attract an equally style-con-
scious clientele. Motto, which
serves cocktails and food in a
trendy lounge-bar atmos phere,
is typical of Sofia’s contem-
porary bar scene. There is also
a growing number of pubs, of
which JJ Murphy’s is one of
the longest-established.
Dance clubs are informal
and inexpensive, with long-
standing venues such as Yalta
and Chervilo (“Lipstick”)
attracting international DJs
and a young crowd.
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