6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
each covering five, six or seven
countries. Each country chapter starts
with a historical portrait and a map of
the region. The main sightseeing
section then follows, with maps of the
capital cities. For each country there is
a section on practical and travel
information, followed by listings of
recommended hotels and restaurants.T
his travel guide helps you to get
the most from your visit to
Eastern and Central Europe,
providing detailed prac tical information
and expert recom mendations. Eastern
and Central Europe at a Glance gives
an overview of some of the main
attractions and a brief history. The
book is divided into three sections,HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
A locator map shows where the region
lies in relation to the countries around it.Each country chapter has
colour-coded thumb tabs.EASTERN AND CENTRAL
EUROPE MAP
The coloured map on the inside
front cover indicates the 14
country and 3 city chapters
in this guide.1
At a Glance
The map here highlights
the most interesting cities,
towns and sights in the
countries covered by each
of the guide’s three sections,
such as South Eastern Europe.2
Country Introduction
This section gives the reader an
insight into the country’s history,
geog raphy and culture. A chart
lists the key dates and events in
the country’s history.3
Country Map
For easy reference, sights in
each country are numbered
and plotted on a map. The
black bullet numbers indicate
the order in which the sights
are covered in the chapter.Sights at a Glance lists
the numbered sights
in the chapter in
alphabetical order.South Eastern Europe at a Glance
One of the most diverse areas of the European continent, South Eastern Europe is where the cultural
traditions of Central Europe, the Mediterranean and the Balkans come together. So it is not uncom mon
to see Catholic churches, Orthodox monasteries and Muslim holy sites rubbing shoulders. The region’s
island-scattered Adriatic coast and the golden-hued sands of Romania and Bulgaria offer ample opportu-
nities to relax on the beach. Inland, rugged mountain regions, rich in wildflowers and woodland, provide
the perfect backdrop for exhilarating hikes.412 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE INTRODUCING SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE 413
Peleş Castle is nestled in the (see pp582–3)
fairy Transylvanian Alps. Its tale spires and turrets^
reflect the romantic tastes of its high-living first
King Carol I of Romania. resident, German-bornBelgrade the Serbian capital, (see pp548–9)cen-,
tres on the sprawl Kalemegdan Fortress, ing
overlooking the Danube river. With its crum-
bling bas for mer con tions built by querors,
it is now a tranquil park laced with
flower shaded promenades.beds and tree-Mount Triglav the highest peak in Slovenia, (see pp436–7),
stands at the heart of a national park filled with jagged summits,
evergreen woodland and glacier-carved lakes.Zagrebimportant regional cultural centre, boasts a fine (see pp486–7), capital of Croatia and an
collection of museums and galleries and a year-round supply of top-quality music and theatre.0 km0 miles (^100100)
Sofia capital of Bulgaria, is (see pp604–605),
rich in Roman remains, medieval treasures and
Orthodox churches. The cavernous Neo-
Nevski Memorial Church Byzantine Aleksandûr
graceful centre serves as the city’s piece.
(see pp566–599)ROMANIA
(see pp600–641)BULGARIA
(see pp544–565)SERBIA
BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA(see pp508–525)
(see pp526–543)MONTENEGRO
(see pp450–507)CROATIA
(see pp414–449)SLOVENIA
Jajce medieval Bosnian capital, (see pp518–9), the
is a picturesque hilltop town famous for its
thun and water-powered mills.der ing waterfall
EASTERNEUROPESOUTH
EASTERN CENTRAL AND
EUROPE
CENTRAL EASTERN EUROPE 297
Landlocked at the heart of Central Europe, Slovakia combines a
dynamic economy with a wealth of natural assets – mountains, lakes,
unspoilt valleys and spectacular ice caves. Beautiful churches ranging,
from the Romanesque to Art Nouveau, are a feature of its towns
and cities, while numerous castles and ruined fort resses stand
testimony to the region’s turbulent history. Slovakia, nevertheless,
remains a relatively little-known country, with few visitors.
During the 5th and 6th centuries HISTORY
the Slavs arrived in the Danube Lowlands, but they were later
con 795 the Avars were beaten by quered by the nomadic Avars. In
Charlemagne (r. 742–814), at the head of an alliance of Franks and
Moravians. This cleared the way for the establishment of two Slavic
principalities, out of which grew the Great Moravian Empire. By 885, this
incorporated parts of present-day Slovakia, Germany and Poland, as
well as Bohemia and Moravia. The Moravian Empire was destroyed in
the 9th century by the invading Magyars, who took control of the
Danube Lowlands, including much of modern-day Slovakia. From this
period the Czechs and Slovaks were exposed to different cultural and
political influences. In 1025, the
SLOVAKIA
A
province of the kingdom of Hungary for nine centuries and
part of Czechoslovakia for 70 years, Slovakia has had a
tumultuous past. It gained independence in 1993 and
is now one of Europe’s youngest countries. With diverse topo- graphy, beautifully preserved architecture and rich folk culture,
the country holds great appeal to visitors.
Breathtaking view of the Tatra Mountains, cent
A vintage tourist bus in Bratislava’s Old Town
510 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA 511
kingdom under King Tvrtko in 1377. Following Tvrtko’s death in 1391, the
country was absorbed into the expanding Ottoman Empire. When the
Austro-Hungarians took over from the Ottomans in 1908, they sought to unite
the country’s ethnic and religious groups as loyal Habsburg subjects.
However, this attempt at homogeneity was resisted by nationalists seeking
independence from Austria, and led the radical Bosnian Serb Gavrilo
Princip to assassinate the Austro-Hungarian heir Franz Ferdinand and
his wife in Sarajevo in 1914. It was
this event that triggered World War I. Bosnia and Herzegovina joined the
newly formed Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes in 1918. During
World War II, the Nazis established a puppet state in Croatia which grew to
include Bosnia and Herzegovina. After the war, the country was reintegrated
into Yugoslavia, and enjoyed a relatively peaceful and prosperous
period. As the Yugoslav regime slowly collapsed throughout 1990–91, Bosnia
and Herzegovina voted for independence, but despite inter-
national recognition it soon fell prey to inter-ethnic violence. The republic’s
largest ethnic group, the Bosnian Muslims, were challenged by ethnic
Serbs and Croats who did not want to become part of an independent
Bosnian state. The Bosnian Croats claimed an area of the country for
themselves, while the Bosnian Serbs created Republika Srpska (the Serb
Republic) within the borders of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The army of the
Republika Srpska, and, to a lesser extent, the Croatian army, carried out
ethnic cleansing in the form of mass exterminations and deportations.
In 1995, the Dayton Agreement brought an end to the conflict.
Since then, thousands of EU soldiers have maintained the peace, but
despite sharing a common gov-ernment, Bosnia’s ethnic groups still
cooperate poorly.
There are three official languages LANGUAGE AND CULTURE
spoken in Bosnia and Herzegovina: Bosnian, Croatian and Serbian –
German is a common second language. With a multi-ethnic compo-
sition, the country’s cultural heritage is truly diverse. Orthodox Christianity
and Islam have combined with Austro-Hungarian and Catholic traditions to
create a unique culture.
Depiction of the assassination of Archduke Ferdinand
Church of St James in the central square at Međugorje
Exploring Bosnia and Herzegovina
Bosnia and Herzegovina has a wealth of fascinating towns to explore as well as stunning
natural beauty. The capital, Sarajevo, is one of Europe’s most lively cities, yet retains an old-world
charm. To the south lies Mostar, with its atmo-spheric medieval centre, while to the north west
Jajce enjoys a picturesque location above two water falls. The country’s rail network is poorly
con condition. Although most towns are served by nected, but its roads are in reasonably good
buses, car hire provides greater flexibility.
KEY Airport
Motorway Major Road
Railway International border
0 km
0 miles
50
50
The well-preserved medieval fortress dominating the town of Travnik
KEY DATES IN THE HISTORY OF BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
AD 445 1189 Signing of the Kulin Ban Charter trade The region is conquered by Ostrogoths
agreement between Bosnia and Dubrovnik 1377 Bosnia becomes a kingdom under
King Tvrtko I 1463 The Ottomans conquer Bosnia and
Herzegovina 1908 Austria-Hungary annexes Bosnia
and Herzegovina 1914 Archduke Franz Ferdinand is assassinated,
sparking World War I 1918 Bosnia and Herzegovina becomes part of
the kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes 1945 Bosnia and Herzegovina becomes part of
a new federal Yugoslavia 1990 Collapse of Yugoslav regime
(^1992) an independent country Bosnia and Herzegovina is recognized as
(^1995) Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina Dayton peace accord signed by Croatia,
(^2006) integration rejected in Parliament Constitutional amendment for EU
Bihać Jajce 34
Međugorje Mostar pp520–21 (^65)
Sarajevo pp512–17Travnik 2 1
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
17
18
1717 18
16-
16
15
(^15 )
4 16
5
5
14-
6-
17 6-
20
20
19-
19
4
4
8
17
17
Jajce
MeđugorjeMostar
Travnik
SARAJEVO
Bihać
CROATIA
SERBIA
MONTENEGRO
ADRIATICSEA
TaDrina
ra
Miljacka
Vrbas Bosna
Sana
Vrbas
Una
Vrb Spreča
anja
Pliva
Tr ebišnjica
Unac
Buško Jezero Neretva
Šturlić
Kulen Sanski Most
Vakuf Bosanski Petrovac Ključ
Prijedor Omarska
Bosanska Dubica
Banja Luka
Bosanska Gradiška
Laktaši Derventa Kotorsko
Bosanski Brod
Bočac Kotor Varoš
Gračanica Srebrenik
Lukavac Tuzla
Bijeljina
Janja
Modriča Orašje Brčko
Bosansko Drvar
Grahovo
Mrkonjić Grad
Glamoč Donji Vakuf Vitez
Babanovac
Žepče Živinice Zvornik
Zenica Kladanj Vlasenica Bratunac
Podromanlja Rogatica
Prozor Goražde Višegrad
Livno Kupres Gornji Vakuf Tomislavgrad
Jablanica Konjic
Posušje
Caplijina Stolac Gacko
Trebinje
Bileća
Tjentište
Foča
HrasnicaPale
Vogošća