Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

148

1 Koblenz

Rhineland-Palatinate; 56001

Located at the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel, Koblenz marks the

northern end of the Rhine Gorge. Built in 9 BC as a Roman settle ment,

the city was repeatedly fought over for many centuries because of

its strate gic riverside location. Following its comprehensive destruc-

tion during World War II, it was rebuilt in a mix of old and new. Its

pedestrianized center has many pavement cafés and is surveyed from

across the Rhine by the grandiose Ehrenbreitstein citadel.

VISITING KOBLENZ

Parking

The most convenient parking lot is in

the corner of Stresemannstrasse

and Neustadt, just northeast of the

Kurfürstliches Schloss.

Tourist Information

Rathaus, Jesuitenplatz 2, 56068; 0261

13 09 20; http://www.koblenz-touristik.de

Above Restaurant Terrasse along the

Rhine, Koblenz

A 90-minute walking tour

From the parking lot at the

Kurfürstliches Schloss, turn left

down Stresemannstrasse to the

Rhine, then left, following the river

to its confluence with the Mosel.

Known as the Deutsches Eck 1 ,

or “German corner”, the head land

is presided over by a giant

equestrian statue of Emperor

Wilhelm I. Behind it, the

Deutschherrenhaus was

once the 13th-century head-

quarters of the Teutonic

Knights, but the building is

now home to the Ludwig

Museum (closed Mon), displaying

modern and contem porary

art. Walking west along the

thin strip of parkland from

the Deutsches Eck, the

picturesque old town, Altstadt,

comes into view. To the right is the

arresting castle Alte Burg 2 on the

banks of the Mosel. The first fortress

here was built in the Middle Ages by

BACK ROADS GERMANY

Where to Stay: inexpensive under €70; moderate €70–€150; expensive over €150

the von Arken family, but in 1277, it

was taken over by the archbishop of

Koblenz, who sought to protect him-

self from the city’s citizens, who were

seeking indepen dence. The fortress

now houses the town archives. Walk

through the archway just to the right,

up a flight of stairs, and left on

Burgstrasse for the short walk

to the Florinsmarkt 3. One

of several focal points in the

Altstadt, the Romanesque-Gothic

church of Florinskirche (Jun–Aug:

open daily) is known, above all, for

the Augenroller, a figure that rolls

its eyes and sticks out its tongue

every half hour from its perch

below the clock. The square is also

home to the Mittelrhein-

Museum (closed Mon), a

regional history museum

with some 19th- century paintings.

Also of interest are the works of

18th-century Rococo painter

Januarius Zick, who lived in Koblenz.

From the Florinsmarkt, head south

WHERE TO STAY

KOBLENZ

Diehl’s Hotel moderate

This riverside hotel has pastel-colored

rooms, complete with claw foot bath-

tubs. Facilities include a pool and sauna.

Rheinsteigufer 1, 56077; 0261 19 70 70;

http://www.diehls-hotel.de

Kleiner Riesen moderate

Housed in a modern building, this

guest house has ele gant rooms. A con-

tinental breakfast buf fet is served, too.

Kaiserin-Augusta-Anlagen 10, 56068;

0261 30 34 60; http://www.hotel-

kleinerriesen.de

AROUND MARKSBURG

Zum Weissen Schwanen moderate

This family-owned country hotel has

interesting themed rooms. Two of them

are inspired by the work of 19th-cen-

tury Austrian artist Friedensreich

Hundertwasser, who stayed here.

Brunnenstrasse 4, Braubach, 56338

(1 mile/2 km north of Marksburg);

0262 798 20; http://www.zum-weissen-

schwanen.de

Madonna and Child,

Liebfrauenkirche

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BOATING ON THE RHINE

Several boats chug up and down

the Rhine, allowing one to enjoy the

scenery as well as sample wines. The

largest company, Köln-Düsseldorfer

(0221 208 83 18; http://www.k-d.com), has

five sailings daily from Koblenz.

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