Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

214 BACK ROADS GERMANY

WHERE TO STAY

SCHILTACH

Zum Weyssen Rössle inexpensive

A short walk from the marketplace, this

traditional guesthouse features cheerful

floral and modern rooms. It has free

wire less Internet as well as a good

continental breakfast buffet.

Schenkenzeller Strasse 42, 77761;

07836 387; http://www.weysses-roessle.de

AROUND SCHWARZWÄLDER

TRACHTENMUSEUM

Hotel Storchen moderate

The traditional half-timbered exterior

of this guesthouse in Haslach sug g ests

nothing of the eccentricities within. All

its rooms are themed with concepts

such as Oriental, aquatic, desert island,

and even a hot air balloon.

Hauptstrasse 35, 77716 Haslach (east

of Schwarzwälder Trachtenmuseum);

07832 97 97 97; http://www.hotel-storchen.de

DURBACH

Rebstock moderate

With lovely, individually decorated

country-style or boutique rooms

and suites, this family-run hotel has

exquisite landscaped gardens that

serve as a backdrop for its spa, which

includes a sauna and steam room.

Halbgütle 30, 77770; 0781 48 20;

http://www.rebstock-durbach.de

Hotel Ritter expensive

An upmarket, family-run boutique

hotel, Ritter has tasteful decor and

superb fitness and spa facilities.

Tal 1, 77770; 0781 932 30;

http://www.ritter-durbach.de

4 Alpirsbach

Baden-Württemberg; 72271

Strung out along a tight valley, the

town of Alpirsbach once basked in a

medieval golden age that gave it the

Romanesque Benedictine monas tery

Kloster Alpirsbach (mid-Mar–Oct:

open daily; Nov–mid-Mar: open Thu,

Sat & Sun), whose church was built

of regional red sand stone in the 11th

century. The interior is largely empty,

but worth a look for its power ful nave

capitals, which illustrate the forces of

good and evil. The cold Dormotorium

and Calefectorium of the monks are

visited by hour-long tours, which also

give visitors back ground about life in

the monastery. Other tours visit the

adjacent brew ery, the Alpirsbacher

Klosterbräu (tours daily), which brews

several fruity local beers.

ª Return to the B294 from

Krähenbadstrasse, turn right,

following signs to Schiltach. Take the

Schiltach-Ost entrance to the town,

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150

6 Schwarzwälder

Freilichtmuseum

Baden-Württemberg; 77793

Close to the Gutach’s confluence

with the Kinzig is the Schwarzwälder

Freilichtmuseum (open daily), an open-

air museum. The focus here is the

Vogtsbauernhof, a 1570 farmhouse.

Its roof is typical of the local build ing

style. Arranged around the farm

are 26 other tradi tional buildings,

brought here from around the region

to create a little village.

Cos tumed guides and

craft demon stra tions

help bring the place to

life. Visitors can follow

signs on the B33 from

the museum to the

Sommerrodelbahn

(Apr–Oct: open daily), a

summer toboggan run.

ª Return to the B33,

turning left to Hofstetten.

Turn right at Ringstrasse

in Haslach. Follow signs

to the museum and park

in the lot beside it.

5 Schiltach

Baden-Württemberg; 77761

The picture-postcard town of Schiltach

was built on the banks of the Kinzig

river, where a reconstructed lum ber

mill houses the Schüttesäge-Museum^

(late-Mar–Oct: open daily; Nov–late-Dec:

open Sat & Sun). The black and white

photo graphs at this saw mill museum

illustrate a bygone era when the town

was the hub of a logging industry. A

short walk along the river toward

Hauptstrasse leads to a market place

sur rounded by half-timbered build-

ings, none of which date from before

1533, when a fire reduced the town

to ashes. The Rathaus or town hall has

murals of the blaze, including a depic-

tion of the witch blamed for the fire.

ª Continue on Schramberger

Strasse and turn right on to the

B294. Then turn right on to the B33

toward Villingen-Schwenningen.

Park at the marked roadside parking

beside the museum.

turn right at Hauptstrasse, then

left on to Schramberger Strasse for

on-street parking. Walk back to

Hauptstrasse, turn left, and take the

alley on the right to the museum.

Above left Farm mill in Vogtsbauernhof,

Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum Above

right Fountain outside a brewery, Alpirsbach

Below View of the old square from the

16th-century Rathaus, Schiltach