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0 Haigerloch
Baden-Württemberg; 72394
Pretty Haigerloch is draped around
a ridge and surrounded by lush
greenery where lilacs blossom in
spring. It is a quiet town, and very
remote, which is why, during World
War II, an old beer cellar at the
base of a cliff here became a secret
atomic research laboratory. Today,
the Atomkeller-Museum (May–Sep:
open daily; Mar, Apr, Oct & Nov: open
Sat & Sun) commemorates this
research. At the time, atomic science
was still in its infancy, but the threat
of an atom bomb was taken so
seriously by the occupying American
forces that everything was methodi-
cally dismantled and destroyed, or
shipped to the US. The whole site
was to be blown up, but luckily,
the priest from the 16th-century
Gothic Schlosskirche (open daily),
perched on the cliff above, begged
for mercy. An explosion in the
cave would have destroyed not
only the cave, but much of Haigerloch.
Fortunately, the Americans changed
their minds once they saw the
church’s ornate Rococo decor
and the impres sive 1609 altar.
The Renaissance Schloss Haigerloch9 Internationales
Luftfahrtmuseum
Baden-Württemberg; 78056
The private collection of an avid
pilot, Schwenningen’s Internationales
Luftfahrtmuseum (closed Mon) is the
fruit of a lifetime spent collecting
and reconstructing aeronautical
memorabilia. Among the collection
are rebuilt versions of early World
War I planes of the kind that the
Red Baron, the German flying ace,
once flew. But most of the aircraft
are Cold War-era oddities, bought
upon their decommissioning and
flown here from around Europe.
Sadly, many were damaged by
heavy hail storms in 2002 and 2006,
leaving smashed wings and
broken windows.
ª Return to B27, then
turn on to B463 at
Balingen and continue
northward, following signs
for Haigerloch. Turn right to
park in small multi-story
park in lower town center.Where to Stay: inexpensive under €70; moderate €70–€150; expensive over €1508 Donaueschingen
Baden-Württemberg; 78166
The longest river in Western
Europe, the Danube begins in
Donaueschingen, where its
source is marked by a stone
basin, Donauquelle. This
lies on the fringes of the
palace gardens of Schloss
Donaueschingen (tours
Apr–Sept: daily), an 18th-
century Baroque palace that
was extensively renovated in
belle époque style at the end
of the 19th century. Tours
visit the luxurious rooms of the
Fürstenberg family who once resided
here. In 1283, this family also started
the Fürstenberg Brewery, which can
be visited on pre-booked tours (Mon–
Fri; 0771 862 73). To get there from the
parking lot, turn right and then take
the first right down Postplatz before
walking left along Halden strasse
to the brewery complex.
ª Return to the B27, following signs
to Villingen-Schwenningen then to
Schwenningen Ost. At the first
roundabout, follow brown signs to
Internationale Luftfahrtmuseum
for the parking lot.WHERE TO STAYDONAUESCHINGEN
Hotel Linde moderate
Traditional, central guesthouse above
a good restaurant with standard
rooms and free wireless Internet.
Karlstrasse 18, 78166; 0771 831 80;
http://www.hotel-linde-donaueschingen.de
Zum Hirschen moderate
Family-run guesthouse whose spacious
rooms have a contemporary elegance.
All have access to wireless Internet.
Herdstrasse 5, 78166; 0771 898 55 80;
http://www.hotel-zum-hirschen.de
Öschberghof expensive
This health and golf resort-hotel with
boutique-style rooms offers a range
of saunas and a large pool. The golf
course is one of the best in the region.
Golfplatz 1, 78166; 0771 840;
http://www.oeschberghof.comHAIGERLOCH
Schloss Haigerloch moderate
Housed in a 16th-century castle, this
lovely hotel offers brightly colored
rooms with all modern comforts.
Schlossstrasse 3, 72401; 07474
69 30; http://www.schloss-haigerloch.deLogo,
Fürstenberg beerBACK ROADS GERMANY
Above Lovely view of the town from castle
grounds, Haigerloch Below left Orchestra
fountain, Donaueschingen Below right
Gateway to Schloss Haigerloch