Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

252 BACK ROADS GERMANY

p Reit im Winkl

Bavaria; 83242

Situated in a broad valley surrounded

by mountains, Reit im Winkl is a

charming Alpine town with chalet-

style architecture and one of the

i Aschau im Chiemgau

Bavaria; 83229

This village is dominated by Schloss

Hohenaschau (guided tours: Tue–Fri, Sun

& public hols), an 800-year old fort ress

remodeled during the Renaissance. It

now houses the Priental Museum,

which explores the hist ory of the iron

industry in the Prien Valley and is the

venue for falconry displays (Apr–

Oct: closed Mon; mid-Jul–Aug: open daily).

Nearby, the Kampenwandbahn gon-

dola ascends the 5,476-ft (1,669-m)

moun tain, giving access to ski runs

in winter and hiking trails in summer

(tourist office; Kampenwandstrasse 38;

08052 90 49 37).

ª Take Bernauer Strasse. At Bernau,

turn left for the B305. Cross the A8 and

take Priener Strasse to the near est

town, Prien. Park in the marked parking

lot in the town or at the harbor.

o Chiemsee

Bavaria; 83209

The blue waters of Bavaria’s largest

lake, the Chiemsee, are a para dise for

yachtsmen in the summer months

(Chiemsee Yachtschule; 08051 17 40;

http://www.dhh.de). Take a ferry to the lake’s

islands, Herreninsel and Fraueninsel.

The former is the site of the Schloss

Herrenchiemsee (open daily), which

was King Ludwig II’s attempt to

recreate Versailles. The castle is

modeled after the original museum

and is devo ted to the life of Ludwig II.

ª From Prien, return to Bernau.

Continue on the B305 to Reit im Winkl.

Follow signs to a parking lot.

a Ruhpolding

Bavaria; 83324

Ruhpolding is the perfect spot to

ascend in a cable car to the 5,485-ft

(1,672-m) Rauschberg, which offers a

pano rama of 600 Alpine peaks. The

town boasts 99 miles (160 km) of

cross-country ski runs. South of the

town is the Holzknechtmuseum

(May–Oct: closed Mon; Jan–Mar: open

Wed; public hols) with exhibits relating

to the area’s woodwork tradition.

ª Return to the B305, turn left to

Schneitzelreuth, then left again on

to the B21 for Bad Reichenhall. Park

at marked parking lots in the town

or at Alte Saline.

WHERE TO STAY

ASCHAU IM CHIEMGAU

Residenz Heinz Winkler expensive

This five-star hotel occupies a historic

inn; the main build ing dates back to

1405. Rooms and suites are furnished
      in traditional style, while the hotel’s
      restaurant is one of Germany’s best-
      known gourmet restau rants. There
      are spa facilities.
      Kirchplatz 1, 83229; 08052 179 90;
      http://www.residenz-heinz-winkler.de

REIT IM WINKL

Unterwirt expensive

An old family-run hotel, Unterwirt

exudes Alpine charac ter, from its

wooden ceilings to the traditional tiled

ovens and country-style furnishings.

There’s a garden with an outdoor pool,

a spa, and a sauna. The menu of the

hotel’s restau rant offers Leberkäs (a form

of meatloaf ) and more elaborate fare

such as fillet steak with truffles.

Kirchplatz 2, 83242; 08640 80 10;

http://www.unterwirt.de

RUHPOLDING

Almhof inexpensive–moderate

Rooms at this old-fashioned pension

offer all the rustic charm of an Alpine

hut with the con venience of en suite

facilities, balconies, and a good position

opposite the ski runs. Some rooms

have traditional wooden ceilings and

pine-clad walls.

Maiergschwendtner Strasse 5, 83324;

08663 885 80; http://www.hotel-almhof.de

BERCHTESGADEN

Vier Jahreszeiten moderate

This family-run three-star hotel with

mountain panoramas sits on the hillside

close to the center of town. Rooms are

decorated in traditional style and have

en suite bath or shower; many have

balconies or mountain views.

Maximilianstrasse 20, 83471; 08652

95 20; http://www.hotel-vierjahreszeiten-

berchtesgaden.de

s Bad Reichenhall

Bavaria; 83435

A conservative German spa town,

Bad Reichenhall is somewhat

medicinal. The main focus of the

town is the Kurpark, fring ed by

buildings such as the Gradierhaus,

an outdoor saline inhaler originally

intended to repro duce the health

benefits of sea air. On the south side

of the town is the for mer royal salt

works, the Alte Saline (May–Oct: open

daily; Nov–Apr: open Tue–Fri & Ist Sun;

Right Twin-towered church in Aschau im

Chiemgau Below View of picturesque

Ruhpolding

best snow records of any German

ski resort. Skiing was introduced

to the area in the 19th century by

foresters and Norwegian students;

the Skimuseum (open Tue, Wed & Fri)

docu ments the story in detail.

ª Take the B305/Weitseestrasse to

Waich, turn left on to Seehauserstrasse

for Ruhpolding. In Ruhpolding, follow

the parking lot routing system.