Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

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WHERE TO STAY

AROUND SCHLOSS RHEINSBERG

Zum Jungen Fritz inexpensive

This centrally located inn has cheerful

hosts and tidy rooms. Free passes to

the local gym are also provided.

Schlossstrasse 8, 16831 Rheinsberg

(west of Rheinsberg); 03393 140 90;

http://www.junger-fritz.de

Der Seehof moderate

A mid-18th-century former farmhouse

just north of Schloss Rheinsburg, with

bright rooms and lake views.

Seestrasse 18, 16831 Rheinsberg

(north of Rheinsberg); 03393 140 30;

http://www.seehof-rheinsberg.de

Pension Holländermühle moderate

This comfortable B&B has a novel

location in a 100-year-old windmill,

just a couple of minutes’ drive south

of Schloss Rheinsberg.

Holländer Mühle 01, 16831

Rheinsberg (13 miles/21 km south

of Rheinsberg); 03393 123 32;

http://www.hollaendermuehle.de

AROUND KLOSTER CHORIN

Waldsee Hotel moderate

Beautifully situated in the woods north

of the monastery grounds, this family-

run hotel has simple, floral rooms.

Neue Klosterallee 12, 16230 Chorin

(south of Chorin); 03336 653 10;

http://www.waldseehotel-frenz.de

AROUND THE SCHIFFSHEBEWERK

Am Schiffshebewerk inexpensive

A guesthouse with clean and spacious

en suite rooms located in quiet, rural

surroundings. Famous for traditional

meals and homemade cakes.

Hebewerkstrasse 43, 16248 Niederfinow

(north of Niederfinow); 03336 27 00 99;

http://www.hotel-schiffshebewerk.de

BACK ROADS GERMANY

1 Schloss Rheinsberg

Brandenburg; 16831

According to Frederick the Great,

king of Prussia, his happiest days

were spent in the Schloss Rheinsberg

(closed Mon), located in a sedate little

town of the same name. Here, in

the early 18th century, he studied

for the throne, wrote flute sonatas,

and gave occasional concerts. Later,

the palace served as a sanatorium.

It has since been renovated and

has become a popular attraction

with lovely gardens; some of the

elegant palace rooms can be visited.

Highlights include the Spiegelsaal

(mirror hall), with its dizzy ing ceiling

fresco by court painter Antoine

Pesne, and the Baroque Muschelsaal

(shell hall) with its maritime theme.

The north wing of the palace houses

the Tucholsky Literaturmuseum

(closed Mon), which examines the life

of pacifist and left-wing journalist

Kurt Tucholsky (1890–1935).

ª From Schlossstrasse, drive towards

Herzberg to reach Köpernitz. At

Right Schloss Rheinsberg, one of the town’s

main attractions Below Grim exterior of the

former concentration camp at Sachsenhausen

BOATING AROUND RHEINSBERG

Much of Rheinsberg’s charm lies in

its adjacent tranquil wooded lakes.

These can be explored with Reederei

Halbeck (033931 386 19; http://www.

schiffahrt-rheinsberg.de), who operate

half-day cruises of local lakes from the

quay behind the palace. They also rent

out rowing boats and kayaks.

2 Gedenkstätte

Sachsenhausen

Brandenburg; 16515

A poignant reminder of one

of the most oppressive regimes of

the 20th century, the Gedenkstätte

Sachsenhausen, or memorial (open

daily; museums: closed Mon), portrays

the atrocities that occurred here

when it was converted into a concen

tration camp during World War II.

The Sachsenhausen became a model

for most other Nazi camps. Though

it was never designated a full-blown

Rheinsberg and Kurt Tucholsky

The picturesque setting of

Rheinsberg provided Kurt Tucholsky

with inspiration for his novel

Rheinsberg: Ein Bilderbuch für

Verliebte (Rheinsberg: a Picture

Book for Lovers), a cheerful love

story laced with criticism of

bourgeois thought and nationalism.

This made it one of the books

burned by the Nazis once they

came to power, though by then

Tucholsky had already left Germany.

He died in exile, in Sweden, before

the World War II he had predicted

broke out.

Köpernitz, turn left in the direction

of Gransee. From here, turn right and

get onto the B96 to Nassenheide. Take

the exit toward Oranienburg-Nord

then turn left on Granseer Strasse

toward Sachsenhausen. Turn left on to

the Friedrichsthaler Strasse, and

almost at the roundabout, exit onto

Sophie-Scholl-Strasse, which becomes

Aderluch. Turn left on Schäferweg

to reach the parking lot at the former

camp gates.

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150