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Above Tudor mansion of Kentwell Hall, built
in 1554, Long MelfordConstable Country
“The sound of water escaping from
mill dams, willows, old rotten planks,
slimy posts and brickwork, I love
such things. These scenes made me
a painter.” So wrote John Constable
(1776–1837), who would go on to
be recognized, with JMW Turner, as
one of the foremost landscape
artists of the 19th century. The
dramatic vistas, farmlands, water
meadows and marshes of the Stour
Valley and Dedham Vale, the big
skies and distant church spires, all
evoke Constable’s true spirit.WHERE TO STAYLONG MELFORD
Bull Hotel moderate
There are 25 comfortable ensuite rooms
at this old but friendly and comfortable
half-timbered inn set in a central location.
Hall Street, CO10 9JG; 01787 378 494;
http://www.thebull-hotel.com
AROUND LONG MELFORD
Angel moderate
Nothing grand here, but there’s decent
pub accommodation and obliging
service in this warm and friendly inn
(first licensed in 1420) on the village
square. Head north out of Long Melford
on the A134 and turn right on Bridge St
Rd at Bridge Street to get to Lavenham.
Market Place, Lavenham, CO10 9QZ;
01787 247 388; http://www.maypolehotels.
com/angelhotelDEDHAM
Dedham Hall and Fountain
House moderate
This historic manor house hotel and
restaurant set in expansive grounds also
has an artists’ studio and art school
housed in a converted Dutch barn. The
hotel offers 18 pleasant rooms (13 in an
annexe for painting holidays). The place
is run with a generous ethos.
Brook Street, CO7 6AD; 01206 323 027;
http://www.dedhamhall.co.uk
Sun Inn moderate–expensive
There are five bedrooms furnished to a
high standard in this 15th-century inn.
The food on offer is good, too. Expect
imaginative breakfasts and a restaurant
featuring modern British cooking. Also
prepares delicious picnics to order.
High Street, CO7 6DF; 01206 323 351;
http://www.thesuninndedham.com9 Long Melford
Essex; CO10 9AA
This village is aptly named, with its
long high street lined with specialist
and independent shops, galleries and
antiques emporia, bars, restaurants
and old inns. Holy Trinity Church,
dating from the late 15th century, is
grand and glorious and the Old Bull
Inn (c. 1450) once played host to
Beatle John Lennon. Delightful
Georgian and Queen Anne cottages
overlook the green, as does turreted
Melford Hall (1554) (open late Mar–late
Oct: Wed–Mon pm; http://www.nationaltrust.
org.uk), where Queen Elizabeth I once
slept and where children’s author
Beatrix Potter sketched for her books
by the fishponds. Then, it’s into the car
again and – “Parp, parp!” – head north,
following tourist signs to the setting
for the film Toad of Toad Hall. Kentwell
Hall (check online calendar for opening
times: http://www.kentwell.co.uk) is a moated,
red-brick Tudor mansion, with gardens
and a rare-breeds farm – home to
Tamworth pigs, near-extinct Norfolk
Horn sheep and huge Suffolk PunchRight St Mary’s Church, Stoke-by-Nayland,
a typical Suffolk “wool” churchBACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £1500 Stoke-by-Nayland
Suffolk; CO6 4QU
Another wonderful Suffolk village, on
a hilltop in Constable Country, Stoke-
by-Nayland has plenty of attractive
half-timbered and traditional pink-
washed cottages. St Mary’s Church,
which features in a number of John
Constable’s paintings, was built from
the profits of the local wool trade and
dates mainly from the 14th and 16th
centuries. It has a fine octagonal font
and a well-preserved oak door,
adorned with a Tree of Jesse.
ª Rejoin B1068 to Higham. Here, turn
right and right to Stratford St Mary. At
the village sign turn left to the car park.horses. The humour and hospitality of
Patrick Phillips – owner since 1970 – is
everywhere in evidence.
ª Head back towards Sudbury on
B1064, then follow one-way system to
A134 (signed Colchester). Turn off left
onto B1068 to Stoke-by-Nayland. Park
in the centre.