Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

122


Above View to Norwich Cathedral, built in the
11th and 12th centuries

Below Cobbled street and traditional shops in Elm Hill, Norwich

Two-hour walking tour
Start at the magnificent Cathedral 1 ,
with the second-tallest spire in the UK.
It was built by the Normans 1096–
1145, although the spire was not
completed until 1480. Flanking
the West Door, in niches, are
two recent figures by David
Holgate who used local
people for his models. Turn
right into Tombland from
Erpingham Gate 2 , where
there is a bust of Edith Cavell, a
Norfolk nurse executed by the
Germans in World War I for
helping British and French
soldiers to escape. Turn right
into Palace St and left and left
again to walk down Quayside,
along a short stretch of the
Wesum. Take a left on Bridge St and
right onto cobbled Elm Hill, lined with
cottages and antique shops, noting
the tiny Church of St Simon and St
Jude 3 , the second most ancient in
Norwich. Fork right and right again
onto St Andrew’s St and take a left on
Bridewell Alley to find the Bridewell
Museum 4 (closed for restoration until
2011), which tells the story of Norwich.
To continue, turn right and walk down

Bedford St and Lobster Lane, then left
onto Lower Goat Lane; continue to
find City Hall 5 lording it over Market
Square. Built in the 1930s, this has the
longest balcony in England and its
sonorous clock bell – Great
George – is the largest in
Europe. Descend into the
square and head to the right
to see the 15th-century
Church of St Peter Mancroft
6 , dedicated to St Peter and
St Paul, whose symbols appear
on either side of the north
porch. Wander through the
market to emerge on to
Gentleman’s Walk and pass
through the Art Nouveau
Royal Arcade 7 , designed
by George Skipper and
opened in 1899. The arcade is lined
with traditional old shops. Exit to see
Norwich Castle 8 (open daily, pm only
on Sun; http://www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk),
looming above on a mound, with its
Norman keep and garden. From 1345,
this served as a prison and place of
public execution, but since Victorian
times it has been a museum with
displays of art, archaeology and history.
Beyond the castle, go left on Market

WHERE TO STAY

NORWICH
By Appointment moderate
Restaurant with five rooms, lavishly
furnished with swags and antiques, in
three 15th-century merchants’ houses.
Breakfast menu includes local sausages,
field mushrooms and fresh croissants.
25–29 George St, NR3 1AB; 01603 630
730; http://www.byappointmentnorwich.co.uk
Maids Head moderate
With ensuite four-star accommodation
and guest parking, this is a handy city-
centre hotel. It also has a great old bar.
Tombland, NR3 1LB; 0844 855 9120;
http://www.foliohotels/maidshead

HORNING
Moorhen B&B inexpensive
A delightful old guesthouse with two
garden rooms and two rooms looking
right onto the River Bure.
45 Lower Street, N12 8AA; 01692 631
444; http://www.themoorhenhorning.co.uk
AROUND MUNDESLEY
Beechwood Hotel moderate
This characterful, creeper-covered hotel
has 17 ensuite rooms just off the A149
in North Walsham, south of Mundesley.
The proprietors are friendly and
welcoming. It’s worth considering
the hotel as a dining option, too.
Cromer Road, NR28 0HD; 01692 403
231; http://www.beechwood-hotel.co.uk

1 Norwich
Norfolk; NR2 1TF
“Norwich has everything” wrote architectural historian Nikolaus
Pevsner in 1962 – a cathedral and castle, grand halls, cobbled streets
lined with ancient buildings, museums, theatres, bars and restaurants,
a 900-year-old market, many shops, and two rivers – the Wensum and
Yare. The old county town of Norfolk, Norwich makes an ideal base for
exploring the East Anglian countryside, the Fens and Norfolk Broads.

BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

VISITING NORWICH
Parking
The city centre can be confusing to
drivers but the largest central car parks
are Chapelfield and Castle Mall, or use
park-and-ride facilities around the city.
Tourist Information
The Forum, Millennium Plane, NR2 1TF;
01603 727 927; http://www.norwich.gov.uk Stained-glass,
Norwich Cathedral
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