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Above Dore Abbey, founded by French
Cistercian monks in 1147Below Finely sculpted doorway at the Church of
St Mary and St David, KilpeckBACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £1501 Hereford
Herefordshire; HR1 0LW
With its gentle hills and gardens, it is
easy to forget that in the Middle Ages
Hereford saw fierce border skirmishes
between the Welsh and English, even
after the Saxon King Offa of Mercia
(AD 757–96) invaded Wales and built
his dyke. For earlier civilizations, visit
Hereford Museum and Art Gallery
(closed Mon; Oct–Mar also closed Sun) on
Broad St and see a Roman mosaic and
coins, keys and bronzes found locally.
High above the River Wye, Hereford
Cathedral has Saxon origins and fine
Norman pillars, dog-tooth arches and
an ancient library. See, too, one of
Britain’s finest treasures, the Mappa
Mundi, a map of the known world,
drawn on deer vellum in 1290.
Among the modern artworks are
Simon Beer’s silver corona, above the
altar, and John Piper’s tapestries.
Known for its apples, Hereford is a
big cider producer, so follow signs to
the Museum of Cider (closed Sun) to
learn the secrets of cider production.
ª Cross the river and take A465 until
a sign to the left for Kilpeck; follow
signs and park outside the church.2 Kilpeck
Herefordshire; HR2 9DN
The crowning glory of this pretty
village is the Church of St Mary and
St David, perhaps the best 12th-century
Norman Romanesque church in
Britain. Look for exquisite Celtic and
Norse-style carving dating from 1140
and the whimsical carved corbels of
animals, wrestlers and dancers below
the roofline. To see the remains of the
motte and bailey castle and for good
views, walk up behind the churchyard
and left over a stile up the hill.
ª Return to A465 and turn left. Drop in
to the Galanthus Gallery and café at
Wormbridge (open Thu–Sun), then take
next right and follow signs to Abbey
Dore. Park on road by Antiques Centre.in 1634 as an Anglican church. There
are fine examples of 13th-century roof
bosses, a number of interesting wall
paintings and a wooden musicians’
gallery, which dates from the 1700s.
Visit the Antiques Centre next door,
and the Trappe Gallery in Ewyas Harold
(on the way back to the A465), for the
exquisite paintings of Rob Ritchie.
ª Take B4347 to A465 and turn right.
Turn right to Llanfihangel Crucorney. Just
before the Skirrid Inn, Wales’s oldest pub,
turn right to the priory and follow signs
to Cymyoy. Turn left at T-junction by
Coach House and right at end of road.4 Vale of Ewyas
Llanthony, Powys; NP7 7NN
This is a beautiful glaciated valley,
with woodlands and fertile farmland,
offering good horse riding. Cwmyoy
Church sits on a geologically recent
landslip which some say coincided
with Christ’s crucifixion. The ground is
still settling, and the church’s tower is
said to lean even more than the one at
Pisa. There is also a stone cross here
similar to an Irish high cross. Return
to the valley road and turn right to
Llanthony Priory by the River Honddu.
Legend has it that St Peter and St Paul
visited here and that St David, the
patron saint of Wales, lived here as a
hermit. In the 12th century, the knight
William de Lacy was so impressed with
its spirituality that he founded a church
on the spot – later the site of Wales’s
first Augustinian priory. Carry on north
over the Black Mountains to GospelVISITING HEREFORDParking
One-hour parking in the centre at Broad
Street and King Street.
Tourist Information
1 King Street, HR4 9BW; 01432 268 430WHERE TO STAYHEREFORD
Somerville House moderate
This friendly boutique B&B is located in
a Victorian villa a short walk from the
station. Serves healthy breakfasts.
12 Bodenham Rd, HR1 2TS; 01432 273
991; http://www.somervillehouse.net
HAY-ON-WYE
The Swan at Hay moderate
This former coaching inn dates back to
Georgian times and has 18 comfortable
rooms and pretty gardens.
Church Street, HR3 5DQ; 01497 821
188; http://www.swanathay.co.uk
AROUND HAY-ON-WYE
The Old Post Office inexpensive
Set in a 17th-century building, southeast
of Hay off the B4350, this good B&B
offers three ensuite country-style rooms,
with delicious vegetarian breakfasts.
Llanigon, HR3 5QA; 01497 820 008;
http://www.oldpost-office.co.uk
AROUND BRECON
Felin Glais inexpensive–moderate
Restored 17th-century barn in fields to
the northwest of Brecon off Cradoc Rd.
It offers rustic chic and evening meals.
Aberyscir, LD3 9NP; 01874 623 107;
http://www.felinglais.co.uk
Felin Fach Griffin moderate
This is a lovely rose-painted pub off the
A470 northeast of Brecon. Its boutique
rooms are stylish and comfortable.
Felin Fach, LD3 OUB; 01874 620 111;
http://www.eatdrinksleep.ltd.uk3 Abbey Dore
Herefordshire; HR2 0AJ
Nestling in the fertile “Golden Valley”,
this village is home to the remains of
the Cistercian Dore Abbey, founded in
1147 from wool trade profits. Only the
eastern end still stands, but it is an
impressive height. The abbey was
dissolved in 1537 and reconsecrated