Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

145


Above The picturesque harbour in Fishguard’s
Lower Town

DRIVE 13: Wonders of West Wales


DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Castles, gardens, churches and
beaches – this drive has it all.

Castles and Gardens
From Llandovery 1 , see its castle and
Myddfai – famed for its physicians,
then pack a picnic and head for
Llandeilo 2 and the colourful
gardens at Aberglasney. Climb the hill
to stunning Carreg Cennen Castle 3.
Finally, visit the spectacular National
Botanic Garden of Wales 4.

Follow this drive’s instructions and then
retrace the journey.

Camarthen Bay
Visit the beach at Tenby 8 , skirt the
bay to sandy Pendine 7 and its
Museum of Speed. Head to Laugharne
6 for bay views from both the castle
and Dylan Thomas’ home. Carry on to
the stout bastion of Kidwelly Castle
5. If there’s time, stop off at Carew
Castle 9 , before returning to Tenby for
some of its lively nightlife.

Follow this drive’s instructions in reverse,
taking the A477 to Carew Castle.

Coastal Fun
From Newport r, head down to pretty
Fishguard e to learn about the last
invasion of Britain. Then on to St Davids
w to visit the cathedral and enjoy a
clifftop walk. Have a bracing swim or
surf at Whitesands Bay and finish off
with supper in Solva q.

Follow the A487 there and back.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

Stained-glass window,
St David’s Cathedral

e Fishguard
Pembrokeshire; SA65
This is a town of three parts: Lower
Town with its fishing harbour, Upper
Town with its shops and main streets,
and Goodwick to the north with its
ferry terminal. Park in the centre and
visit the Royal Oak on Market Square.
The pub is decorated with objects
relating to the “Last Invasion of Britain”


r Newport
Pembrokeshire; SA42
Set on the estuary of the River Nevern,
Newport was once a very busy port,
but has long since silted up. The town
has good access to the Pembrokeshire
Coastal Path and is a popular base for
walks into the Preseli Hills, famous as
the source of the Stonehenge
bluestones. For a closer Neolithic site,
head east on the A487 and follow the
signs right to Pentre Ifan, a tomb
dating from c. 3500 BC and built from
a series of upright stones with a huge
5-m (17-ft) capstone. Return towards
the A487 but cross over to the pretty
Norman village of Nevern. The church
is famous for several items: it has a
4-m (13-ft) high, 10th-century, two-
piece Celtic Cross; a smaller Vitalian
Stone, possibly from AD 500; an
avenue of “bleeding yews” which
exude a bright red sap and, inside, the
Maglocunus Stone, inscribed with a
5th-century example of Ogham script
(an ancient southern Irish alphabet).

EAT AND DRINK

ST DAVIDS
Cwtch moderate
Enjoy relaxed dining at this modern
restaurant with seasonal menus and
local produce. Enjoy sea trout, cockles
or leek and mushroom pudding.
22 High Street, SA62 6PG; 01437 720
491; http://www.cwtchrestaurant.co.uk
Morgans Restaurant moderate
This acclaimed restaurant offers great
food in a contemporary setting. Enjoy
Pembrokeshire beef, good vegetarian
dishes and delicious desserts.
20 Nun Street, SA62 6NT; 01437 720
508; http://www.morgans-restaurant.co.uk
AROUND ST DAVIDS
The Sloop Inn inexpensive–moderate
At Croes-goch, turn left off the A487 to
Fishguard, to this perfect 18th-century
harbourside pub serving a wide range
of bar meals, from simple sandwiches
to fish and chips or hearty steak pie.
Porthgain SA62 5BN; 01348 831 449;
http://www.sloop.co.uk

NEWPORT
Cnapan moderate
Established restaurant serves quality
modern British cuisine using local
produce such as black beef and Welsh
cheeses. Also a B&B with friendly hosts.
East Street, SA42 OSY; 01239 820 575;
http://www.cnapan.co.uk

rood screen. Evensong is a delight
( Thu–Tue: 6pm). Across a little bridge,
explore the stone ruins of the Bishop’s
Palace 7 , built between 1280 and
1350, before returning to
the car park, where the
Tower Gate House has a
display of religious stones.
West of town, on the
B4853, lies Whitesands
Bay, where legend tells
that St Patrick left Wales to
take Christianity to Ireland.
It is a stunning sandy surf
beach. Visible just offshore
lies Ramsey Island, an
RSPB reserve with
choughs, guillemots,
razorbills and even peregrine falcons.
Boat trips go to the island; look out too
for pods of dolphins and even whales.
ª Take the A487 direct to Fishguard
and park in the town centre car park or
in the Lower Town.


(1797). The tale goes that a French
force of 1,400 troops in four warships
found their way, in bad weather, into a
cove nearby. However, the invasion
was foiled when local women
dressed in traditional tall hats
and red clothes were taken
for British grenadiers – a
tapestry in the Town Hall
portrays the event. The West
Wales Gallery (closed Sun;
http://www.westwalesartscentre.com)
is one of the best regional
galleries in Wales.
ª Take A487 out of Fishguard,
turn right on B4313 and left for
Cilgwyn – a hilly drive with
stunning views – and Newport.

Pembrokeshire Coast National Trail
Running along Britain’s only true
coastal park, the Pembrokeshire
Coast National Trail (01646 689 076;
http://www.pcnpa.org.uk) is 300 km (186
miles) and covers some spectacular
scenery. The Puffin bus service enables
walkers to follow the path and not
have to walk back at end of the day.
Free download pdf