Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

180

Above Pretty flowers of Crescent Gardens in

front of the Royal Hall, Harrogate

A two-hour walking tour

From the car park walk up Montpellier

Road to the tourist office, housed in the

Royal Baths 1 on Crescent Rd. Dating

from 1897, the baths were once a key

destination for the health-conscious

super-rich, who came for the sulphur

water, peat baths and other delights.

Inside, the Turkish baths, with original

Victorian tiles, have been restored to

their 19th-century glory. Facing away

from pretty Crescent Gardens, and with

the baths on the right, turn left into

Parliament Street past the Royal Hall,

built in 1903, and take Swan Rd on the

left. It was at the Old Swan Hotel 2

that crime writer Agatha Christie was

found after crashing her car and going

missing in 1926. Booked in as Theresa

Neele – her husband’s mistress – she

claimed amnesia, but it is not known

what really lay behind it all. Visit the

Mercer Art Gallery 3 (closed Mon except

Bank Hols; Sun, pm only) on Swan Rd, with

its fine art collection of some 2,000

works, mainly from the 19th and 20th

centuries. At the 19th-century Royal

Pump Room Museum 4 (open daily)

on Crown Place, built around the Old

Sulphur Well, try some of the strongest

sulphur water in Europe. Head into

Valley Gardens 5 (open daily) opposite

and follow the stream to see the

restored 1930s Colonnade, Sun Pavilion

and Magnesia Pump Room. Return to

the Royal Pump Room and head right

up Royal Parade and right at the

roundabout, past the stately Crown

Hotel, up Cold Bath Rd, noting the fine

Georgian houses. Turn left into Queens

Rd and left into Lancaster Rd to West

Park Stray. Turn right down Beech

Grove and left onto Otley Rd towards

the Prince of Wales roundabout. Turn

right onto Trinity Road. Admire the

Gothic-style, 19th-century Trinity

Church 6 , then cross Leeds Road and

enter the marvellous public amenity of

The Stray 7. The tree-shaded path

across the park leads to the domed

Tewit Well, England’s

oldest spa. Here, in

1571, William Slingsby

came upon a spring,

and, tasting from it,

was reminded of the

health-giving waters of

European spas. Either

follow Slingsby Walk

across the railway to

appreciate the size of

the park – or head

back to town along

West Park Street for

refreshments at

Yorkshire’s famous tea

rooms, Betty’s 8 , on

the left, before heading

back to the car park.

ª Head north along

Parliament St (the

A61), and take the left

fork to enter Ripley.

There is free parking

by the castle.

WHERE TO STAY

HARROGATE

Balmoral Hotel moderate

Plush boutique hotel in an old building

with opulent rooms and ensuite

Victorian bathrooms at good prices.

16–18 Franklin Mount, HG1 5EJ; 01423

508 208; http://www.balmoralhotel.co.uk

Grants moderate–expensive

In a quiet but central location, this

Victorian town house has smart ensuite

rooms and a smalll seafood bistro.

3–13 Swan Road, HT1 2SS; 01423 560

666; http://www.grantshotel-harrogate.com

April House inexpensive

This small, friendly B&B in a Victorian

house in a quiet avenue offers rooms

with ensuite or private bathrooms.

3 Studley Road, HG1 5JU; 01423 561

879; http://www.aprilhouse.com

RIPLEY

Boar’s Head Hotel moderate

Friendly hotel owned by the Ingilbys

has “olde worlde” but comfortable

rooms that include access to the castle.

Ripley Castle Estate, HG3 3AY0; 01423

771 888; http://www.ripleycastle.co.uk

RIPON

The Old Deanery moderate

This small historic, central hotel offers

individually designed ensuite rooms.

There’s also a decent restaurant.

Minster Road, HG4 1QS; 01765 600

003; http://www.theolddeanery.co.uk

VISITING HARROGATE

Parking

Follow signs for centre, for parking on

Montpellier Road or Union Street

Tourist Information

Royal Baths, Crescent Rd, HG1 2RR;

0845 389 3223; http://www.harrogate.gov.uk

1 Harrogate

North Yorks; HG1 1

This vibrant and elegant spa town, on the edge of the Dales, grew up

around a sulphur well, enclosed within the Royal Pump Room built in

1842. Modern visitors will find a wide choice of boutiques, antique
      shops, restaurants and bars, and plenty of green spaces in Crescent
      Garden and Valley Gardens. The vast open park, “The Stray”, was created
      in 1778 so that the people of Harrogate could access the springs.

BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

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