Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

216

Above Princes St, Edinburgh with the Balmoral

Hotel and Scott’s Monument on the left

A three-hour walking tour

Start from Waverley Station car park.

Walk uphill on New Street, turn right

onto Market St, and then left at a

roundabout up Cockburn St. Traverse

the medieval Old Town, with its

cobbled streets, wynds (alleys) and

high buildings – the city was once

enclosed by a wall, so built upwards. At

the top, turn left and walk down the

High Street – the Royal Mile. Pass John

Knox House 1 (open Mon–Sat; Jul–Aug

also Sun pm), a distinctive 16th-century

building said to have been home to

the religious reformer. Next is

Canongate Kirk 2 (open daily): the

18th-century economist Adam Smith

and David Rizzio, the secretary to Mary

Queen of Scots killed by her jealous

husband, Lord Darnley, are both buried

here. At the end of the Royal Mile is the

new Scottish Parliament, opposite the

Queen’s official residence in Scotland,

the Palace of Holyroodhouse 3 (open

daily, except mid-Jun–mid-July & royal visits).

Head back up the Royal Mile, past

Cockburn St to St Giles’ Cathedral 4

(open daily), founded in the 12th-

century. It was from here that Knox led

the Scottish Reformation. Nearby is

Mary King’s Close 5 (open daily), a

warren of ancient, supposedly haunted

streets beneath the city.

Beyond the cathedral, turn left

onto George IV Bridge, then right

down charming Victoria St, lined

with specialist shops. At the bottom,

bear right into the Grassmarket 6 –

now bustling with pubs and shops,

but once the haunt of 19th-century

body-snatchers Burke and Hare. They

lured their victims here and sold the

bodies to a local surgeon. Part way

down the Grassmarket, turn right up

Castle Wynd South. Go up the steep

steps, cross the road at the top and up

more steps to Castle Hill. Edinburgh’s

great castle 7 (open daily) is on the left.

Set on an extinct volcano, it dates back

to the 12th century, but has been a

fortress since AD 600. Its treasures

include the Honours of Scotland (the

Scottish Crown Jewels) and Mons Meg,

one of the world’s oldest cannons.

Walk down Castle Hill, stopping to

sample a few “drams” at the Scotch

Whisky Experience 8 (open daily) on

the right. At Bank St, turn left and go

down The Mound, then walk down

Playfair Steps. The National Gallery of

Scotland 9 (open daily) is on the left,

and good views of the monument to

Sir Walter Scott, to the right. Cross

Princes St, then walk up Hanover St, to

the grand avenues and buildings of

the 18th-century Georgian New Town,

built so the wealthy could escape the

squalor of the Old Town.

Continue to George St, the city’s

smartest shopping area. Turn left to

Charlotte Square, designed by Robert

Adam, and bear right to the north

WHERE TO STAY

EDINBURGH

The Bonham moderate–expensive

This chic townhouse in a leafy corner of

the West End has boutique rooms.

35 Drumsheugh Gdns, EH3 7RN; 0131 226

6050; http://www.townhousecompany.com

NORTH BERWICK

The Glebe House moderate

This lovely mansion has four charming

rooms and picturesque views.

Law Rd, EH39 4PL; 01620 892 608;

http://www.glebehouse-nb.co.uk

AROUND NORTH BERWICK

The Castle Inn inexpensive

There are five beautiful bedrooms at

this recently refurbished coaching inn

on the A198 to Edinburgh.

Manse Road, Dirleton, EH39 5EP; 01620

850 221; http://www.castleinndirleton.com

VISITING EDINBURGH

Parking

There are car parks by Waverley Station,

at Castle Terrace and at Greenside Place.

Tourist Information

3 Princes Street, EH2 2QP; 0845 22 55

121; http://www.edinburgh.org

1 Edinburgh

Lothian; EH1

With its brooding castle, dramatic crags and rich history, Edinburgh is

Scotland’s most romantic city as well as its capital. Visitors have long

been fascinated by the medieval streets of the Old Town and charmed

by the Georgian squares of the New Town, before being entertained in

the city’s many bars and restaurants. It’s no wonder that it has inspired

generations of writers, from Robert Louis Stevenson to J K Rowling.

BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

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